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    PVC spacer for front fork preload question...

    78gs1000e

    I am tired of dealing with air issues in the front fork (rebuilt them a year ago) so now want to insert enough 3/4" pvc to make the forks close to accurate.

    Do I remove the 3" metal spacer thing that is already in there and make a pvc pipe a couple inches longer than that?

    OR ..... do I leave that metal spacer sleeve in and just make a spacer to go on top?

    It looks to me like the metal spacer sleeve is so thin it could cut in to the pvc.

    In regards to the length I need, I am about 230 lbs.
    82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
    80 gs1000s

    #2
    Originally posted by Gregory View Post
    78gs1000e

    I am tired of dealing with air issues in the front fork (rebuilt them a year ago) so now want to insert enough 3/4" pvc to make the forks close to accurate.

    Do I remove the 3" metal spacer thing that is already in there and make a pvc pipe a couple inches longer than that?

    OR ..... do I leave that metal spacer sleeve in and just make a spacer to go on top?

    It looks to me like the metal spacer sleeve is so thin it could cut in to the pvc.

    In regards to the length I need, I am about 230 lbs.
    If those are the stock fork springs, you might want to look into upgrading your fork springs with Sonic's straight rate springs. Eliminate the air system for good and go with a 15-20 wt fork oil to get the ride you want.
    sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
    1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
    2015 CAN AM RTS


    Stuff I've done to my bike 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by mrbill5491 View Post
      If those are the stock fork springs, you might want to look into upgrading your fork springs with Sonic's straight rate springs. Eliminate the air system for good and go with a 15-20 wt fork oil to get the ride you want.
      Yes I probably will, but for right now with cash being tight I would like to try to make these stock springs work. Any advise?
      82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
      80 gs1000s

      Comment


        #4
        Take the steel ones out and put in longer PVC ones.


        Life is too short to ride an L.

        Comment


          #5
          Replace the metal sleeve with a piece just long enough to stick out above the top of the fork tube about a half an inch and see if you like the improvement. Of course, it will be more difficult to get the cap back on with the added pressure.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
            Take the steel ones out and put in longer PVC ones.
            This but you also might want to consider taking some of the coils off of your spring (cut it & flatten the end back out best you can on a sander) which will increase the spring rate.....

            Cut at least 2" to feel a difference but don't go too short otherwise you could go coil bound.

            Make sure there is a metal washer between the cut end & the PVC. Increase the length of the PVC by how much you cut off.

            Adding more spacer (preload) only affects the "start point" not the overall spring rate.

            I would cut off all the close wound springs plus an inch or two of the other ones if it was me.

            Add up all the gaps between the coils & make sure you have more than 5" of "gaps" in total left.

            1980 GS1000G - Sold
            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

            Comment


              #7
              /\ What he said /\


              Life is too short to ride an L.

              Comment


                #8
                Why not do some measuring and get it pretty darn close, the first time you try it?

                Measure your "sag" to see how much you need to add. To do this, locate a helper, then ...

                - Start with the bike on the centerstand, measure from the top of a fork tube to the bottom of the triple clamp above it. Record that measurement.
                - Take the bike off the stand, sit on the bike. Put as much weight as possible on the bike in a normal riding position.
                - Have your helper measure the distance from the top of the fork tube to the bottom of the triple clamp. Record it.

                Your forks should sag no more than 20-25% of total travel. In your case, you are looking for 1 to 1 1/2 inches. Compare that with what you just measured.

                Let's say you dropped 2 inches. You need to add about 3/4 inch to bring it up.

                Now, take the stock metal spacer out, measure it, add 3/4", cut your PVC to that length.

                That will work until you get your new springs, then you get to do it all over again.

                .
                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
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                Comment


                  #9
                  I appreciate everyone's help. I got impatient waiting on an answer and was working on it when Chuck C called me.

                  I was trying a washer atop the stock sleeve and a 2"PVC and it wasn't going on. Chuck told me that he had taken apart some forks and found 3/4" to 1" spacers in them.... SO, I have tried that. 1 washer and a bit over 3/4" PVC. It was a booger to get on but I got it done.

                  Haven't taken it for a spin yet, but the new fender was still scraping the pipes so I simply cut the damaged part of the fender off for now till I get this figured out.

                  I suspect these V&H pipes are not correct for this bike.

                  82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
                  80 gs1000s

                  Comment


                    #10
                    like somebody else said...
                    you have to cut the soft end off the spring and replace the missing spring piece with the same length of pvc spacer, plus more spacer for preloading to set sag.
                    GSX1300R NT650 XV535

                    Comment


                      #11
                      To push down on the top cap, use a 1/2 inch drive socket, push down with a long extension with both hands. Even better if you have an old school speed wrench, hold it down with one hand, push down with your chest, and turn it with the other hand. Be careful not to cross thread it.


                      Life is too short to ride an L.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You can also measure sag ( travel if you will ) with a zip tie fitted just tight enough to slide right above the top of the wiper ( dust boot as some call it ) and do the compression. The tie will stay at its highest point of travel when the forks are extended again.

                        And I have even found chunks of solid round stock steel spacers in fork before. Have seen spacers from 3/4 inch and as long as 2 inches. I told Greg to start with 1 inch and see how it feels. PVC is cheap and many lengths can be cut to customize the feel to ones individual likings.

                        And yes i did mention a washer above the metal sleeve so it doesnt cut into the PVC.
                        Last edited by chuck hahn; 03-27-2014, 09:49 PM.
                        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                          To push down on the top cap, use a 1/2 inch drive socket, push down with a long extension with both hands. Even better if you have an old school speed wrench, hold it down with one hand, push down with your chest, and turn it with the other hand. Be careful not to cross thread it.
                          YUP. That's exactly how I eventually did it, and was crossing my fingers that I didn't cross thread since it goes on a bit off centered.

                          I would suspect that Suzuki had a special tool for this back in the day.
                          82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
                          80 gs1000s

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Gregory View Post
                            I appreciate everyone's help. I got impatient waiting on an answer and was working on it when Chuck C called me.

                            I was trying a washer atop the stock sleeve and a 2"PVC and it wasn't going on. Chuck told me that he had taken apart some forks and found 3/4" to 1" spacers in them.... SO, I have tried that. 1 washer and a bit over 3/4" PVC. It was a booger to get on but I got it done.

                            Haven't taken it for a spin yet, but the new fender was still scraping the pipes so I simply cut the damaged part of the fender off for now till I get this figured out.

                            I suspect these V&H pipes are not correct for this bike.

                            Those look like drag pipes right? They have a different bend to them then the street megaphones.
                            sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
                            1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
                            2015 CAN AM RTS


                            Stuff I've done to my bike 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Gregory View Post
                              YUP. That's exactly how I eventually did it, and was crossing my fingers that I didn't cross thread since it goes on a bit off centered.

                              I would suspect that Suzuki had a special tool for this back in the day.
                              I bet the special tool was a big guy with a speed wrench.


                              Life is too short to ride an L.

                              Comment

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