How thin can you go on triple clamps?
Collapse
X
-
How thin can you go on triple clamps?
Can I bore 35mm clamps to use 37mm fork tubes safely? How thin can you go without making it too weak?Tags: None -
I've done it. I've no idea if it's safe but, to quote the Aussie politician, the front didn't fall off. It seems to me there's plenty of meat on there and it's only 1mm in radius.79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father -
OK. That sounds right. There are four of them holding it together after all. They can't possibly all break at once. Can they? I'm sure Suzuki put at least an extra mm in there just for the what ifs. "What if some twatwaffle hits a lorry? Will the forks break if he hits a lorry?"
Have you taken more than 1mm off and had it not break?
Can any old machine shop do it?Comment
-
No simple answer. Assuming the did a decent job in the design to start with and there is no stress risers then compare the thinnest dimension score and after boring. The 35mm to 37mm bore is only 1mm off on any side so it is probably ok. In general I would not recommend it.
Unfortunately a failure could still mean they all go at once. If one (the weakest) goes suddenly three are now taking the load leading to the next weakest breaking then you are down to two for the same load. You see where I'm going. Under external load, If one goes expect them all to go.Comment
-
I also find it interesting that you are willing to weaken one area just to make another one stronger.
The larger forks would add to the strength and rigidity of the front end, but might also transmit a bit more shock load to the (now weaker) clamps.
So many of these bikes are still moving around (and quite well) on 35mm forks with no apparent problems. Unless you are setting one up for the extra loads of racing or off-roading, what do you really hope to gain with the larger forks?
I am thinking it might be an exercise in futility.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)Comment
-
More room inside to convert it to a cartridge fork. Don't care how it moves, trying to get it to ride smoother.Comment
-
hardline_42
What bike are the donor forks coming from? It seems like it would be much easier to swap over the entire front end, including the triples. GS850G forks are 37mm and so are GS500 forks. They should all use the same steering head bearings. I've got a 41mm SV650 front end in my garage waiting for a future swap onto my GS450.Comment
-
Guest
Depends. How much material is there now with the 35mm forks?
No, the first one would fail which would overload the next one in line which would fail, then the next and so on.
Most likely. You just need someone with the capacity to line bore both clamps together in one setup to ensure that they are a matched set. Will your pinch bolts clear the bigger fork tube?
That sounds like a much better choice. OP, if you are looking at this to help with the cartridge conversion we discussed I would say that swapping to a complete front end with a modern fork that already has shim stack damping would be much easier. If you want to keep the classic GS look then this may be the better option.
MarkComment
-
This is for my 550. Not interested in swapping forks on this bike. Got the single brake working well, want to keep it how it is. Don't really want to make a lot more work for myself. Considering swapping fork internals to make this fork into a cartridge fork. Going to 37mm would give a little more room inside for the cartridge. I have a set of 37mm forks from a GS1000 sitting here.
Could also swap steering heads, but I think all of the 37mm GS steering heads would put the fork tubes farther apart, again making more work for myself.Comment
-
hardline_42
If that were the case, wouldn't it just require some spacers? If you're going to have machine work done anyway, I think machining spacers would be a safer route to take than boring the clamps.Comment
-
Comment
-
If you put a flat screw driver into the cut of the clamps, you might be able to open them the amount required to slip the 37mm ones in. When you tighten it down it, the aluminum will "conform" to the steel.This is for my 550. Not interested in swapping forks on this bike. Got the single brake working well, want to keep it how it is. Don't really want to make a lot more work for myself. Considering swapping fork internals to make this fork into a cartridge fork. Going to 37mm would give a little more room inside for the cartridge. I have a set of 37mm forks from a GS1000 sitting here.
Could also swap steering heads, but I think all of the 37mm GS steering heads would put the fork tubes farther apart, again making more work for myself.Comment
-
Like that idea a lot better, it seems like it would be stronger, and safer unless something cracks. Any metals experts here? Is that safe to do as long as it doesn't crack? I need to go see how much it would need to be opened up. I have a bunch of spares to practice on.
Thanks for the idea.Comment
-
Are you sure the 1000 triple clamps are wider? I would think that the centers are the same...1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/Comment
Comment