Tube or tubeless

[Sandy]

If you hit a curb it might keep the bead from moving inward but if you hit a curb at speed you will be worrying about staying on the bike period.

That is basically the reason against tubeless on tube type rim. You could hit something, curb, rock, pothole, it happens. Anybody ever come back from an off road excursion to find bent or dinged rim? Without the proper tire/rim configuration it could have been a lot more exciting. That could actually unseat the tire causing instant air loss so while you're trying to regain control from hitting something you're now trying to do that with a flat tire, usually the front. Let me know how that's going to work out. Most anybody who has ever ridden dirt bikes can probably remember a time or two they had to dismount a tire to remove the bark, grass and twigs from under the tires bead, good thing you had tube.

[sharpy]

Mmmmm lets see, dogs, cars, oil, rain, white lines and the list goes on. Why add tubeless to to a bike thats not designed for them to the list of things that mite hurt you? As for heat when flexing, maybe if your running your GS at a flat track/speedway meeting and use 12psi for traction. Even then talcum/baby powder sprinkled inside tyre when installing it will help with friction. For the street just leave it alone and just ride the dam bike knowing one less thing is out there to hurt you. Side note, people who use right angle rubber valve stems should also worry as they flex enough to make it another thing on the list to hurt you. NEW ones be ok but older type mite break. Photo below shows they flex far enough to scratch the rim.

[lurch12_2000]

That is basically the reason against tubeless on tube type rim. You could hit something, curb, rock, pothole, it happens. Anybody ever come back from an off road excursion to find bent or dinged rim? Without the proper tire/rim configuration it could have been a lot more exciting. That could actually unseat the tire causing instant air loss so while you're trying to regain control from hitting something you're now trying to do that with a flat tire, usually the front. Let me know how that's going to work out. Most anybody who has ever ridden dirt bikes can probably remember a time or two they had to dismount a tire to remove the bark, grass and twigs from under the tires bead, good thing you had tube.

I guess if I was doing a lot of off road riding I wouldn't use my old street GSes period and use tubed tires. Though I have done plenty of uneven gravel and dirt roads(not 4 wheel drive roads but occasionally if so very slowly to get through an unintended destination) in New England without issue on GS tubeless tires mounted properly on non marked rims. If I hit a curb at speed on pavement I think I would be off the
bike and not have a clue whether my tire bead broke loose. The impact from miscalculation, rider error or a cager caused the getoff situation, not whether the bead held in place.
In the end the risk aversion folks will choose to stay with what's marked and quite a few of us with lots of miles will convert over. To each their own right? This isn't the first time this issue has been debated.

[lurch12_2000]

Mmmmm lets see, dogs, cars, oil, rain, white lines and the list goes on. Why add tubeless to to a bike thats not designed for them to the list of things that mite hurt you? As for heat when flexing, maybe if your running your GS at a flat track/speedway meeting and use 12psi for traction. Even then talcum/baby powder sprinkled inside tyre when installing it will help with friction. For the street just leave it alone and just ride the dam bike knowing one less thing is out there to hurt you. Side note, people who use right angle rubber valve stems should also worry as they flex enough to make it another thing on the list to hurt you. NEW ones be ok but older type mite break. Photo below shows they flex far enough to scratch the rim.

Interesting...I use the shorter straight stem ones to avoid any flex over time and easiest to get at with a gauge or hose.

[sharpy]

Interesting...I use the shorter straight stem ones to avoid any flex over time and easiest to get at with a gauge or hose.

Short ones are the best, just we replaced them every 2nd tyre change. A few bucks is worth piece of mind. Oh and if anyone wonders why valve caps are there, apparently if the cap wasnt fitted at speed (60+) the valve core can open up due to centrifugal force. So toss those silly/heavy caps away that dont have rubber seals inside them and use just plastic or tiny steel ones for piece of mind.

[themess]

Valve caps also keep out dust. Dust can prevent the valve from sealing, leading to a slow leak.

[astradaryl]

Wow lots on info here I think I'm going to give tubeless a go and see how I get on.
I've got my self a set of them Conti classic attack radials and I've got a bet with my mate that I'll be able to get my knee down so lets hope the tyre dosnt slip off the bead on the track.

Cheers daryl

[Sandy]

Sounds like fun. Just double check the rim width recommendations for those radials. I have a hunch the stock rims might be a bit narrow.

[astradaryl]

I've got a pair here

120/70-18
100/70-19

im hopeing they fit