83 GS1100e Fork removal

[Sandy]

Allright dammit. That fricken bolt just spins that is under the front axle galley. Do i need that homemade threaded all thread thing with the 2, 3/4" nuts?

Probably not. The damper rod just needs bit of fiction on it to keep from turning. Someone mentioned a broom handle works or I was thinking toss a shop cloth in hole and then the spring and push on it a bit. It shouldn't need much unless some dummy put lock tight on it.

[RichDesmond]

Probably not. The damper rod just needs bit of fiction on it to keep from turning. Someone mentioned a broom handle works or I was thinking toss a shop cloth in hole and then the spring and push on it a bit. It shouldn't need much unless some dummy put lock tight on it.

It depends. Often one of those tricks works, but sometimes they can be a real bugger. When you're dealing with a bolt that may not have been loosened in 33 years all bets are off.
If no air compressor is available Harbor Freight sells an electric impact for about $70 that usually works.

[dorkburger]

I had to do the all thread with nuts on it this summer. First time the forks were apart.
A little late, but I did mine with the forks on the bike.

[bonanzadave]

Allright dammit. That fricken bolt just spins that is under the front axle galley.

At least it turns. Mine were so tight I F'ed up the allan head and had to buy new bolts. Yes, they were factory loc-tited. Could not find that metric size and pitch anywhere. Had to order them from the local stealership.

[radbassist]

At least it turns. Mine were so tight I F'ed up the allan head and had to buy new bolts. Yes, they were factory loc-tited. Could not find that metric size and pitch anywhere. Had to order them from the local stealership.

I buggered the 1 i was messing with a little. Ill try everyones tricks this weekend but will definitely get the electric impact wrench

first time these have been apart...

[radbassist]

At least it turns. Mine were so tight I F'ed up the allan head and had to buy new bolts. Yes, they were factory loc-tited. Could not find that metric size and pitch anywhere. Had to order them from the local stealership.

I use babbittsonline.com for most of my parts they have oem in most cases. I just looked up your allen bolts.... 2.95 per. They have 95% of everything! Just tryin to save y'all some money. Shipping is a little expensive for my likes but i get my stuff promptly and it's correct.

and yes.... I'm gonna buy two.

[Guest]

Allright dammit. That fricken bolt just spins that is under the front axle galley. Do i need that homemade threaded all thread thing with the 2, 3/4" nuts?

Having a piece of 1/2" all thread and 4 nuts helps a lot for a number of things, this being one of them.

air (or electric) impact wrench really helps with those.

+1.

Probably not. The damper rod just needs bit of fiction on it to keep from turning. Someone mentioned a broom handle works or I was thinking toss a shop cloth in hole and then the spring and push on it a bit. It shouldn't need much unless some dummy put lock tight on it.

Well, seeing as how the service manual calls for thread locking compound that seems likely.


Mark

[radbassist]

Having a piece of 1/2" all thread and 4 nuts helps a lot for a number of things, this being one of them.

+1.

Well, seeing as how the service manual calls for thread locking compound that seems likely.

Mark

Holy crap. Who'd a thunk a piece of 1/2" allthread and some nuts would do the trick. Looking down the upper tube you can't see anything resembling a hexagonal shape for the nut(s) to lock into.
Not sure what it locks into but ask me if i care....

nope. I got it out.

Thx again guys....

[Guest]

Holy crap. Who'd a thunk a piece of 1/2" allthread and some nuts would do the trick. Looking down the upper tube you can't see anything resembling a hexagonal shape for the nut(s) to lock into.
Not sure what it locks into but ask me if i care....

It is really supposed to be a 19mm hex for the top of the damper rod but the 1/2" UNC nut is 3/4" across the flats and that is an almost perfect match to the 19mm so it works fine. I also use the all thread to seat wheel and swingarm bearings among other things.


Mark

[radbassist]

It is really supposed to be a 19mm hex for the top of the damper rod but the 1/2" UNC nut is 3/4" across the flats and that is an almost perfect match to the 19mm so it works fine. I also use the all thread to seat wheel and swingarm bearings among other things.


Mark

Well sh*t. I hammered the cup on the bottom of the top fork tube after i slammed up the lower fork tube to slide/tap/force the fork back up to the fork clamps so i could "slam" the old seal out and separate the two halves.... Thus, fwaked up this cup thing. It's just a little tin feeling thing that I don't know what it's purpose is but it can't be critical
Make sense?

Not sure i need a new one. I could probably clean up the existing one. Providing it isn't a major issue.

[dorkburger]

The thread on my experience. Maybe it will help.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?241673-First-foray-into-fork-rebuilding&highlight=

[Guest]

Well sh*t. I hammered the cup on the bottom of the top fork tube after i slammed up the lower fork tube to slide/tap/force the fork back up to the fork clamps so i could "slam" the old seal out and separate the two halves.... Thus, fwaked up this cup thing. It's just a little tin feeling thing that I don't know what it's purpose is but it can't be critical
Make sense?

Not sure i need a new one. I could probably clean up the existing one. Providing it isn't a major issue.

Was it #17 or #10 on this diagram?

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...%29/parts.html


Mark

[radbassist]

Was it #17 or #10 on this diagram?

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...%29/parts.html


Mark

Looks like 17

[Guest]

Looks like 17

17 is the bottoming cone and you most definitely need it in there. Partzilla lists it as available, so I would be ordering one or two, as required.


Mark

[radbassist]

Forks are done.... Next step.... Front brake system