Wheel bearings dimensions, replacement recommendations, life expectancy

[roeme]

What are the wheel bearing dimensions, on the '79 550E (cast wheels) in particular? Is there a table somewhere?
Asking because I only have the data for the rear, and am away from the bike (and at the moment can't take off both wheels anyway).

On the rear, found 6303Z on mine. I'm not sure if I should use an 2RS, 2RZ or ZZ replacement, and if a roller bearing makes any sense or is even a bad idea for this application.

Especially to those who have changed out the bearings by themselves, what are your choices and experiences so far?

Also, recommendations on bearing puller equipment are welcome. From the looks of it, some PO hammered the bearings in, with inadequate equipment.

(Sorry if this has been asked before, but the forum search is next to useless, and Google only finds some old GSXR thread in here).

[sharpy]

Yes its called Google.

Parts is...... https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/l...9-gs550e-parts

Bearing info is....http://www.nsk.com/products/ballbearing/

Bearing removal......... https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...moving+bearing

Personally i think your over thinking it. You just get ball bearing fully sealed on both side.

Took me all of 5 min.

[Guest]

What are the wheel bearing dimensions, on the '79 550E (cast wheels) in particular? Is there a table somewhere?
Asking because I only have the data for the rear, and am away from the bike (and at the moment can't take off both wheels anyway).

On the rear, found 6303Z on mine. I'm not sure if I should use an 2RS, 2RZ or ZZ replacement, and if a roller bearing makes any sense or is even a bad idea for this application.

Especially to those who have changed out the bearings by themselves, what are your choices and experiences so far?

Also, recommendations on bearing puller equipment are welcome. From the looks of it, some PO hammered the bearings in, with inadequate equipment.

(Sorry if this has been asked before, but the forum search is next to useless, and Google only finds some old GSXR thread in here).

I took my old wheel bearings and steering head bearings to an Industrial Bearing supply, they were able to match everything up just fine. Use the double sided seals on everything but the large wheel bearing on the rear.

[roeme]

Thanks for the replies!

Maybe I ought to explain the background of my posting a bit more.

As for the research part; I know how to remove and replace the bearings, at least on theory. Brand pullers are quite pricey. Cheap ones numerous on ebay - with all the usual caveats applying. Hence, me asking for any prior experience in that regard.

Ball bearing research proved to be a rabbit hole (event though basic indentification is easy); that's also why I asked for some previous experience.

I'm quite lucky insofar that I have a bearing supplier close by. So I can get bearings for a good price.

I do not want to blindly replace the bearings – technology surely has marched on a bit since '79, so if there's an improved option, I'd like to use it.

Yup, I can have them replaced by a shop; and I do trust them (we've chatted for a bit about bearings, among other stuff that comes with wrenching on these old bikes).
Of course, they take their cut on both work and material, and rightfully so.

I do have three bikes by now, and I know of a few bearings on them I have to replace, at least in the near future. I do enjoy wrenching, so I'd like to do the work on my own. Cutting down expenses is more of a welcome plus, but if it's (significantly) costlier in terms of both money and time spent compared to have the shop doing it, then merely enjoying doing it by myself doesn't suffice anymore.

Investing in brand pullers runs the risk of dumping money into a tool intended for regular, industrial/commercial use – overkill for my sporadic homebrew use. Yes, yes, buy cheap, buy twice, but a price factor difference of nearly an order of magnitude...yeah

Getting a cheap one runs the risk of wasting time for research, order, and few uses only to have the tool itself break or damage something.

The Pit Posse Tool referred to in the other thread seems like the sweet spot.

[Guest]

you might be overthinking it, a punch (perhaps a bit bent to reach in there) and enough sense not to grab the biggest hammer in the box and easy-peasy. as for installation, a bit of time in the freezer and the bearing will just drop right in

[Cipher]

yeah freeze the bearing and heat what your inserting it into. I have a bunch if large sockets that I use to tap em home as large as outer circumference of bearing.

[Guest]

+1 on the Pit Posse PP1692. Just bought in via Amazon for $45.
And +1 on using the freezer.


I splurged on a 50pc bearing driver for $97.
s-l300.jpg
I prefer a good bearing driver over using a socket because it keeps the inner & outer races properly line up.


These tools make for one fewer thing a low-skilled home mechanic like me can screw up.

[aclaytonb]

Probably the wrong answer but I use a rubber mallet and the old bearing to drive them in. Sockets are cool if you have one large enough. Just dont beat on the smaller, inner race.

[limeex2]

Freeze 'em n heat the area. Works every time. You can get really nice double sealed NSK bearings on ebay for a decent price. Check the specs. Don't cheap out on bearings. Heat bearing area and use a drift to remve
.

[aclaytonb]

Never frozen a wheel bearing. Makes the magic happen on steering bearings. Bearings seem to be a hit/miss affair. Havent had an All Balls bearing fail yet and they're usually only $5 - $7 each in ebay. Amazing amount of precision machining for the price, IMHO.