Lower fork swap and questions

[suzukigs1100ez]

I have a 82 gs1100e that has the stock forks that have the brake valve at the bottom of the fork legs. I would like to eliminate those and not have to do the block off plates.

Also, I had installed new fork seals and one side still leaking I think it because I nick the chrome right were the seal rides. Is there a way to smooth this out?

So what other bike are a swap to make that happen. I been searching ebay and think I found a set but the guy doesn't have the model listed just says a gs1100 for 83.

Also like to know if there was any options to get rid of the air assist?

[Steve]

What you are calling a "brake valve" really has nothing to do with the brakes.
It does use pressure from the brake lines to switch a valve in the damping mechanism.

Not sure what other fork legs might interchange.

The best way to get rid of the air assist is to use some proper springs.
One of the favorites here is Sonic Springs.
Go to their site, click on the rate calculator, order the springs.

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[suzukigs1100ez]

Only problem just swapping the springs is there still 2 holes in the legs that have the collars covering it. If was a end cap It make thing easier.

[salty_monk]

If you want to eliminate them without block-off plates then you have a problem... In my experience those fork lowers are not interchangeable with anything earlier that doesn't have them too.

You need to change the whole fork. The easiest way is the block off plate.

[mmattockx]

Only problem just swapping the springs is there still 2 holes in the legs that have the collars covering it. If was a end cap It make thing easier.

If that hole is really bothering you just tap it and then put a grub screw in with some loctite to keep it there.

If you want to eliminate them without block-off plates then you have a problem... In my experience those fork lowers are not interchangeable with anything earlier that doesn't have them too.

You need to change the whole fork. The easiest way is the block off plate.

I just removed the line from the anti-dive to the caliper and put a blank bolt into the anti-dive body. Works fine this way.


Mark

[Boriqua]

I think I am the only one here that likes the anti dive thingies. Aesthetically .. meh .. but it is nice to be moving at 50 and come on that fast yellow light and grab a fist full of brake and the bike front end barely gives anything up. I like it very much

The only time it sucks is when I come into my community. The entrance is off a fairly busy street so its not entirely safe to come to get to slow to make the turn in to the community and the transition is pretty steep. I have just learned to brake before the turn and then let off when I make the turn so its not a harsh transition. Other than that .. I do like em.

I did what was previously suggested .. I bought some springs from Sonic and some 15w oil at my local MC shop and did away with having to use the air assist. I reused the caps.

[Steve]

Only problem just swapping the springs is there still 2 holes in the legs that have the collars covering it. If was a end cap It make thing easier.

Those holes don't matter, as long as they say inside the collars. They only keep the air pressure equal between the two fork legs.

Even if you don't add any air, there is air trapped inside the fork leg when you put the cap on. As the fork is moved, that air will be compressed. In the original configuration (with air added), it was possible that one leg might leak a but, upsetting the pressure balance. The addition of those two holes and the tube that went between them would keep the pressure equal. If you have proper-strength springs that don't require additional air to hold up the front of the bike, those holes will still keep the air pressure equal. No problem at all.

The onlly "problem" that I see with the holes is when you are rebuilding the forks. After you add oil and install the cap, you have to be sure to keep the hole in a position to prevent oil coming out.

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[suzukigs1100ez]

The forks I found are these

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Suzuki-GS1100-GS-1100-S113-1-front-forks-suspension-damper-set/292622547707?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

They looke the same as mine just no anti-dive but they also look like the air is added to the top where I can elimate the air collars

The other concern I have is if my brakes would swap over also

[mmattockx]

The onlly "problem" that I see with the holes is when you are rebuilding the forks. After you add oil and install the cap, you have to be sure to keep the hole in a position to prevent oil coming out.

You have to seal the holes to add oil to the level recommended by Rich Desmond, too. I just put a piece of tape over each hole to set the oil level, then removed it once the forks were reassembled and fully extended.


Mark

[salty_monk]

A lot of them look the same but when you get inside there are subtle differences. You may be able to transfer over all the internals & only use the casting I guess. In the case of your forks you'd have to find a way to drill & disable the anti-dive inside the fork as well if it would transfer to another casting...