GS1100E fork - 4 position damping force adjusters tough to turn - concerning?

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  • oldGSfan
    Forum Sage
    Past Site Supporter
    • Jul 2018
    • 1327
    • Southern California

    #1

    GS1100E fork - 4 position damping force adjusters tough to turn - concerning?

    The 4 position 'damping force adjuster' knobs are pretty tight on my forks. There's no sense of a detent position either. I am wondering if there is gunk in there that can and should be cleaned out, and if so, is there a procedure. Looks like it needs a spanner bit of some size, and who knows what's inside that's replaceable to fix the issue. I hit it with some WD40 but no change.

    Any help appreciated. My worry is if some grit or gunk got in there somehow.

    Tom

    '82 GS1100E Mr. Turbo
    '79 GS100E
    Other non Suzuki bikes
  • Rob S.
    Forum Guru
    Past Site Supporter
    • Dec 2013
    • 9412
    • New York City

    #2
    I'm pretty sure those plastic knobs are hard to replace.
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

    2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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    • oldGSfan
      Forum Sage
      Past Site Supporter
      • Jul 2018
      • 1327
      • Southern California

      #3
      Yeah I did some searching and most discussions were about the plastic knobs and not the internal workings.

      Originally posted by Rob S.
      I'm pretty sure those plastic knobs are hard to replace.
      Tom

      '82 GS1100E Mr. Turbo
      '79 GS100E
      Other non Suzuki bikes

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      • salty_monk
        Forum LongTimer
        GSResource Superstar
        Past Site Supporter
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        • Oct 2006
        • 14003
        • London, UK to Redondo Beach, California

        #4
        Yeah I made some of my own out of aluminum stock (copying the one I had that was about to fall apart to make one for the other side).

        I can't remember if there is a detent. Take the nobs off & give them a good clean out & try twisting with something else... They do ease off but from memory they are always a bit stiff. Once you've set them I guess you generally don't need to mess with them again.
        1980 GS1000G - Sold
        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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        • oldGSfan
          Forum Sage
          Past Site Supporter
          • Jul 2018
          • 1327
          • Southern California

          #5
          OK thanks, I don't want to shred the plastic by twisting it around too much, thought of doing what you said, probably vice grips with a heavy cloth to protet the metal. Sounds like the most I should do.

          Originally posted by salty_monk
          Yeah I made some of my own out of aluminum stock (copying the one I had that was about to fall apart to make one for the other side).

          I can't remember if there is a detent. Take the nobs off & give them a good clean out & try twisting with something else... They do ease off but from memory they are always a bit stiff. Once you've set them I guess you generally don't need to mess with them again.
          Tom

          '82 GS1100E Mr. Turbo
          '79 GS100E
          Other non Suzuki bikes

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          • salty_monk
            Forum LongTimer
            GSResource Superstar
            Past Site Supporter
            Super Site Supporter
            • Oct 2006
            • 14003
            • London, UK to Redondo Beach, California

            #6
            Yep, that's what I did. The D shaped shaft is pretty hard material.

            What happens with the knobs is that they get forced because they are tight, then the metal spring plate falls out, the plastic then stretches more & they fall off.

            You may find that when you take yours off the spring plate is missing or the knob is cracked beside the flat. That in turn means that you are now basically twisting the plastic rather than the force being transferred into the shaft.

            In short you may find the problem is knackered knobs rather than an overly stiff shaft (oo err missus )

            You may find replacements the D is a pretty standard for ovens & the like but I couldn't find any the right size.
            1980 GS1000G - Sold
            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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            • Guest

              #7
              The plastic knobs on mine were toast when I got it, I made new ones from brass stock. I also took the adjuster apart to clean it out and solder the #4 hole completely shut. You need a wrench with two nibs to engage the two slots in the nut that holds the adjuster tube in place. After that nut is out the whole assembly pulls out with no issues. There is an o-ring in there that could need replacement but nothing else is a wear part. If you want I can post pics of the brass knobs I made and the wrench I made to get the nut out.


              Mark

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              • oldGSfan
                Forum Sage
                Past Site Supporter
                • Jul 2018
                • 1327
                • Southern California

                #8
                OK that's helpful, thanks Mark. My plastic knobs are fine, I will not need to replace them. I figure I can keep them as cosmetic and adjust with a tiny vice grip because I've rotated them that way w/o damage, just remove the knob to do it.

                Why solder #4 hole, is that a known mod? What does it help?

                I would like to see the tool. I'm wondering if a socket can be cut down with an angle grinder.




                Originally posted by mmattockx
                The plastic knobs on mine were toast when I got it, I made new ones from brass stock. I also took the adjuster apart to clean it out and solder the #4 hole completely shut. You need a wrench with two nibs to engage the two slots in the nut that holds the adjuster tube in place. After that nut is out the whole assembly pulls out with no issues. There is an o-ring in there that could need replacement but nothing else is a wear part. If you want I can post pics of the brass knobs I made and the wrench I made to get the nut out.


                Mark
                Last edited by oldGSfan; 04-25-2020, 12:09 AM.
                Tom

                '82 GS1100E Mr. Turbo
                '79 GS100E
                Other non Suzuki bikes

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                • Guest

                  #9
                  Originally posted by oldGSfan
                  OK that's helpful, thanks Mark. My plastic knobs are fine, I will not need to replace them. I figure I can keep them as cosmetic and adjust with a tiny vice grip because I've rotated them that way w/o damage, just remove the knob to do it.
                  Once you have them set you are unlikely to touch them for ages. It is very much a set and forget type of thing.


                  Originally posted by oldGSfan
                  Why solder #4 hole, is that a known mod? What does it help?
                  The biggest problem with damper rod forks is getting enough rebound damping. I soldered the hole to have a max setting. I never used it, though, and am on #2 setting (I think, it has been years since they were set).


                  Originally posted by oldGSfan
                  I would like to see the tool. I'm wondering if a socket can be cut down with an angle grinder.
                  A deep socket could likely be modified to work. Mine is made from a piece of 4140 round bar because that was on hand when I made it.








                  The adjusters:



                  Mark
                  Last edited by Guest; 04-27-2020, 11:42 AM.

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