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Tackling the rear brake on my 77gs750..need input

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    #1

    Tackling the rear brake on my 77gs750..need input

    Old member here but parked bike a few years back so now a new member again and wanting to get the 750 back on the road..
    First thing i noticed is no brakes..front or rear..starting with the rear..so foot pedal goes all way to travel end..have no fluid in the master reservoir but didnt see any leaks at the rear caliper..rear pads are worn all the way and rotor is grooved up nicely...got new pads coming.
    So maybe fluid was low and worn pads cause fluid level drop?..should i pull the caliper and inspect for corrosion..there is some corrosion taking place on areas of caliper including the bleeders.
    And when i do pads and bleed brakes do I open both rear bleeders together?..or pic one side first because??..thx
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    #2
    I had a KZ1300 a few yrs. back. Went out for first start up of the season, one spring, & like you, no rear brakes. I saw no leaks, but system was completely dry. Filled with fluid, got it bled & rode it a few more yrs. with no problems, no add fluid no nothing. Never knew where fluid got out, never did it again. First need to find problem area. ME, I'd fill reservoir & see if you can get fluid thru system & air out (new or old pads won't matter). If you do, find where fluid is getting out & fix that, then go farther as needed. Or, as most others would do just start with the master cylinder, complete clean rebuild then completely clean & rebuild the caliper, replace the rotor & brake hose & all crush washers & you'll be completely finished. Your decision, just whatever you think. While making decision, realize how important the brakes are. Good luck & welcome back.
    1983 GS1100E, 1983 CB1100F, 1991 GSX1100G, 1996 Kaw. ZL600 Eliminator, 1999 Bandit 1200S, 2005 Bandit 1200S, 2000 Kaw. ZRX 1100

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      #3
      If the brakes have never been serviced / inspected its a good idea to go thru them completely.
      If the brakes have been serviced / inspected its still a good idea to go thru them completely.

      My rear brake got stuck on a few years ago due to corrosion in the master cylinder. One day it was fine, the next ride it got stuck with no warning.
      sigpic
      When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

      Glen
      -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
      -Rusty old scooter.
      Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
      https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
      https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/

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        #4
        Sounds like a good start guys..I think my biggest concern is snapping off a bleeder screw and I've never had to deal with any type of brake caliper with two bleeders..

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by Hiccup View Post
          Sounds like a good start guys..I think my biggest concern is snapping off a bleeder screw and I've never had to deal with any type of brake caliper with two bleeders..
          Ten seconds of a propane flame on the alloy where the bleeder is nested in, and it will come out easily.
          ---- Dave
          79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
          80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
          79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
          92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

          Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by Grimly View Post
            Ten seconds of a propane flame on the alloy where the bleeder is nested in, and it will come out easily.
            Copy that..will give it some heat.

            Comment

              #7
              Grimly..great tip..the bleeder screws wouldn't budge but after a bit of propane flame they both freed up..

              ..So what about the two rear bleeders...bleed the long(inner) one first?..or short(outer) first? ..thanks

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by Hiccup View Post
                Grimly..great tip..the bleeder screws wouldn't budge but after a bit of propane flame they both freed up..

                ..So what about the two rear bleeders...bleed the long(inner) one first?..or short(outer) first? ..thanks
                I generally do the nearest one first and work outwards, as a general rule for whatever vehicle it is.
                ---- Dave
                79 GS850N - Might be a trike soon.
                80 GS850T Single HIF38 S.U. SH775, Tow bar, Pantera II. Gnarly workhorse & daily driver.
                79 XS650SE - Pragmatic Ratter - goes better than a manky old twin should.
                92 XJ900F - Fairly Stock, for now.

                Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

                Comment

                  #9
                  The manual says to bleed the inboard one first, then the outboard one.
                  Jordan

                  1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
                  2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
                  1973 BMW R75/5

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