How do I remove the bolts that keep the caliper together?

[Rijko]

Hmmm i was talking to a colleague before hitting the submit button so i did not see your answer Noreg

[Rijko]

Good you got the pistons out Noreg

Now inspect the sides of the pistons for damage like scratches and rust.
The sides of the pistons ride on the rubber seal and should be smooth.

[Noreg]

Hmmm i was talking to a colleague before hitting the submit button so i did not see your answer Noreg

I ordered the piston set sort of by chance. I thought it was brake pads plus some other parts from looking at the parts fiche. Apparently piston sets only has two pistons, two big flat o-ring, a small flat o-ring and the rubbery boots to go around the pistons. But that was a lucky coincidence as that seems to be exactly what I needed. But looking at the old pistons, they seem salvagable (only surface rust on the inside caliper bit, and some rust on the oustide caliper bit, wonder why they arent painted inside).

Ill run down to the store and get a set of steel brushes for my drill and see if that will clean them up and hopefully get rid of the old paint.

[Rijko]

I like to smooth out the inside with a flannel polish brush, and some cloth around that so it fits snug in the bore.

This is a before picture from a clutch slave cylinder that leaked.
Unlike the GS brakes, these have the rubber seal on the piston so it is more important the bore is very smooth.
This slave cylinder leaked.

before-leaking.jpg

[Rijko]

And this is the after picture.

after.jpg

[Noreg]

And this is the after picture.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]61483[/ATTACH]

That looks waaaay more better than my steel brush. Also I couldnt get any of them to fit right inside. And I steel brushed my fingers. But the steel brushes worked great on making those sticks that hold the brake pads shiny again.

Steel seems a bit coarse, but it got most of the paint off, so I hope some fresh paint will make it nice.

Would a felt polishing thing work? I need to look into the polishing options. I wish lazers were more affordable, so I could strip rust and paint easily.

[Rijko]

That looks waaaay more better than my steel brush. Also I couldnt get any of them to fit right inside.

That's a good thing, you want those bores shiny not scratched from metal brushes.
Use something soft, like an old t-shirt.

Would a felt polishing thing work?

Yes, and if it's a bit too small just wrap it with cloth like in the picture above, you can see i wrapped it until it just fit into the bore.

buffing.jpg

[Noreg]

That's a good thing, you want those bores shiny not scratched from metal brushes.
Use something soft, like an old t-shirt.



Yes, and if it's a bit too small just wrap it with cloth like in the picture above, you can see i wrapped it until it just fit into the bore.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]61484[/ATTACH]

A t-shirt is hard enough to make aluminum shiny?

Got almost all the paint off the inner part (the half that is towards the wheel), that was tedious, wonder if I can just paint over the old paint or something...

Edit: I tried it with a tshirt, seems to work but I ran out of power on my drill after like two minutes.

[Rijko]

A t-shirt is hard enough to make aluminum shiny?

Yes, like i said use a polishing compound like Belgom Alu, tooth paste, copper polish .. anything that helps polishing.

[Noreg]

Yes, like i said use a polishing compound like Belgom Alu, tooth paste, copper polish .. anything that helps polishing.

Looks like the car store has something like that.

I am so excited to see if this works, and if there will be an improvement.

Is there any other sources of rust than the pistons inside the brake system? I am starting to wonder if I should have just gotten the new brake lines...

Edit: also it seems challenging to get the ridge for the o-ring shiny, but I guess that doesn't matter all that much

[Rijko]

Looks like the car store has something like that.

I prefer Belgom ALU.

Is there any other sources of rust than the pistons inside the brake system?

Not many, but you want to inspect every part of the braking system now you have it apart.
Including the master brake cylinder.

I am starting to wonder if I should have just gotten the new brake lines...

You have read the newbie mistakes, right ?
The old lines could be dirty inside or have a weak spot.
I have never had problems with decades old brake lines, but i know some people have.
Not much fun if a line leaks, and if it fails during hard braking ... you are the one placing trust in these old lines - Suzuki recommended to replace them every 2 or 3 years or so.

it seems challenging to get the ridge for the o-ring shiny, but I guess that doesn't matter all that much

Nope, does not matter at all - squeeky clean and smooth is important.
Shiny is overkill though i like it.

[Noreg]

I prefer Belgom ALU.

I found one Norwegian dealer of it, like $23 for the product and $25 for shipping. Ill keep an eye out for it and try the one they have at the local store (its fairly cheap, and if it doesn't work Im no worse off).

Not many, but you want to inspect every part of the braking system now you have it apart.
Including the master brake cylinder.

I might have a look.

You have read the newbie mistakes, right ?
The old lines could be dirty inside or have a weak spot.
I have never had problems with decades old brake lines, but i know some people have.
Not much fun if a line leaks, and if it fails during hard braking ... you are the one placing trust in these old lines - Suzuki recommended to replace them every 2 or 3 years or so.

I have read it, but its a lot. I have to do it in managable bits so Im not stuck in my driveway for the entire season. I don't believe these are the original (the original is thicker I thin), but I also don't know the age... I think I will test the Snell braided steel braided ones, they apparently put on all the banjos and cut it to the correct length. With that done all I have to do is attach it.


It seems I have a ton still to do. And every time I touch something, I find some new problem I was unaware of xD

But I think next season will be a ton of fun, then Ill have the winter to mess with it, and to fix up the cosmetics (I need all the rust GONE).

So its a slow process, but I think I will get through the list and make everything nice and smooth. I just have to learn how to do things. Cam chain tensioner is high on my list now (it makes a mess of oil) and making the secondary drive stop leaking (oil is getting on my tyre).

Nope, does not matter at all - squeeky clean and smooth is important.
Shiny is overkill though i like it.

Even cleaning inside the groove is somewhat difficult, Ill do as good as I can and see. I am worried about the rust inside the caliper bits (in the holes for the fluid to move) though. And I need to get it painted so its nice and clean. I don't want my new pistons to spoil, they were somewhat pricey.