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BC4Lyphe
Guest
Just wondering approx how many feet of wire you used? In total or each of the 3 windings. Thanks
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The Next Nerobro's HowTo: Doing the Stator Dance
- Thread starter Nerobro
- Start date
Reading this thread, I was just wondering that - as a finger in the air guesstimate, I reckon between 100 and 120ft in total.
I've just now been looking for a local supplier of magnet wire, without much luck, but ebay has thrown up a source that gives me 80 metres of the rough equivalent of 19AWG double-coated 200degC wire for ?14 /?17 /$24 shipped and that's enough for two stators - I have two dead cores on the shelf, handily enough. Local electrical trade outlets have plenty of heatproof cable (I have a drum or two of that myself, just need to strip it out of the cable), high-temp fibreglass / kevlar sleeving, crimps, etc.
As an aside, I have discovered that hot oil and ordinary grade heatshrink don't get on, so I avoided that with my previous stator installations. One stator of mine has soldered joints on the internal harness, the second one has crimps, securely snugged down. It will be interesting to see which fails.
Sounds like pretty low temp.
200degC rated wire is what's been referred to previously, although 240degC is available. Nerobro's MW-35C wire leads to this
http://www.mwswire.com/insspec.html, which is 200degC and his hasn't melted yet (well, not in two years anyway). Other links to suitable magnet wire also lead to 200degC rated wire.
I'm hopeful the lower electrical and thermal stresses put on the windings by the series reg will avoid heat-related problems.
The oil's not going to be near as hot as that and if it does, a frying stator will be way down the list of concerns.
http://www.mwswire.com/insspec.html, which is 200degC and his hasn't melted yet (well, not in two years anyway). Other links to suitable magnet wire also lead to 200degC rated wire.
I'm hopeful the lower electrical and thermal stresses put on the windings by the series reg will avoid heat-related problems.
The oil's not going to be near as hot as that and if it does, a frying stator will be way down the list of concerns.
Grimly..if it's not too late to mention this, also be careful with the three sheathed wires (yellow ones) that come out to Regulator/Rectifier.
A lot of wirevinyl sheathing is only good to 100C and I've seen several stators where the sheathing is shrunken, hard and cracked where it passes into the engine
A lot of wirevinyl sheathing is only good to 100C and I've seen several stators where the sheathing is shrunken, hard and cracked where it passes into the engine
Where is Nerobro ?
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Planecrazy
Guest
Hiya, Dave! I haven't been on the GSR for a very long time so I can't speak for Greg, but he's regularly on Facebook fiddling with any number of electronic projects, lol! I'll let him know his thread is still kicking and you're looking for him!
Regards,
Damn Steve !! Have not seen your name since Tom passed. Better days ahead buddy. Hope to see more of you. Now I suppose Miss Fab will make an appearance.....
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Planecrazy
Guest
...and as you can see, I passed along your message, Dave, lol! Haven't seen Miss Fab in much longer, though ... would be nice to see a bunch of the "old guard" from time to time.
Cheers,
Nerobro
Forum Mentor
The epoxy also stops the windings from flexing as the electromotive force pushes on the winding as the stator generates power.
If left to flex, they would wear through the insulation and short.
Interesting Nerobro did not use any; it suggests that the stators doesn't create that much power or he did a really good job winding and securing all the windings.
250 watts is about 1/3 of Hp
Lots and lots of electric motors don't have fixed windings.
I did take a lot effort to make sure the windings were very tight. wow, this is a really old thread... 10/2006... I'll note that my stator still works.
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Yes, I have used hi-temp resistant fly leads as connecting wires. Allied with heat-proof sleeving it works well enough, so far.
The original heat-proof wiring lasted a long time, but as you say, it's variable and depends a lot on running conditions I suspect. Might also have been improved by Suzuki over the model lifetime.
I'm still around. The stator is still around.
Could you indicate what bike the stator is on and what R/R you have used with how much mileage.
I would presume if there is any amount of mileage with a Shunt R/R that it has started to at least discolor from heat.
To determine how much damage has occurred so far, would need have photos of physical inspection.
Alternatively doing the stator tests at 5K RPM and comparing to previous results when new might provide additional information without pulling the cover.
As I recall, you had repeated stator failures causing you to start doing your own rewinds. I don't know if you have specifically posted this, but are you seeing that your newly wound stator is lasting much longer under the same condition as before when stators were failing?
He did indicate which model it is in. First post.
So you think he put an 550 rotor into that 1150 frame?
No, I don't. He rides a 550.
Nerobro
Forum Mentor
1983 GS550ES. That was indicated somewhere along the line. It's got ~3000 miles on it since then. I think. I"d need to go look. I've checked the stator several times, and because I used larger diameter wire, it's always given 80+ volts instead of the 90+ we really want. But that's not changed over the years.... That said I haven't checked it in 3-4 years. It just works....
I've only had two stator failures. One on a 1980 GS550. It came with a burnt out stator, and I replaced that with an OEM stator. I didn't have an OEM stator for my 83, and the cheapest method was rebuilding the one I had.
From what I've experienced over the years, I think most stator failures start at the r/r. I've flipped 10 bikes? something like that. The vast majority have had charging issues. Since I tended to pick up bikes that had been given up on, because they wouldn't keep running, or had "carburetor issues". I didn't run into bikes that had been babied and were put on chargers all the time. If they had a bad r/r I'd replace those. They always seemed to have an ok stator. What this indicates to me, is that a failing R/R can leads to a toasted stator. Depending on the r/r's failure mode. I think "abuse" leads to a burnt stator, if you get the r/r when charging system fails.... well the stator never seems to go.
There's really no way i'm going to be popping the stator cover to inspect the stator. The gasket isn't weeping, and it charges.
Thanks for the update. You are correct R/R's cause stator failures, but it is not (in general) R/R failures that cause stator Failures. It is SHUNT v.s. SERIES that has been discussed bow at length.
As far as abuse, I'm not sure what you mean unless it is"neglect"of connection maintenance or thrashing of high RPMs in which case I agree.
As far as 80V vs 90V, open loop voltage always goes up with RPM (it is basic physics), but power produced is limited by the magnetic flux paths which is a function of the rotor design no matter the stator.