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Search results

  1. T

    Idle problems

    Sadly yes….then you need to replace o-rings too. lots of tiny drilled passages to clean out Hopefully you can see this link https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf
  2. T

    Idle problems

    So you fully disassembled all the carbs, not just from the rack…before the ultrasonic ?
  3. T

    Idle problems

    Absolutely, your idle circuit passages are likely clogged, not permitting enough mixture flow as you back off “choke” so bike dies.
  4. T

    Bottom of the air-box hose?

    The factory hose coupling/fitting at bottom of airbox is to drain liquid overflow when there’s no suction in airbox …I.e. engine not running . When running, it likely contains a small plastic ball that sucks upwards and blocks this opening. Similar principle to that ping pong ball in a wet/dry...
  5. T

    83 GS550L rejet

    Poor cold starting…not enough extra fuel. wandering idle as it warms up…maybe leaking “choke” plunger letting in air instead of shutting off.
  6. T

    1980 750l

    Maybe we overwhelmed him. But if he’s ok with his diagnosis so far…..might be “choke” use issue. For cold start apply full “ choke”, but NO throttle ..and crank it
  7. T

    1981 GS650G sat for almost 20 years

    Get a new petcock…..Georgefix has got them…made in Japan ..about $55…skip the Chinese copies get a new air filter element UNI -2440 fits the 650 shafties..about $25….hopefully your old filter element still has internal plastic cage…avoid losing it! It’s aD-shaped element .. without properly...
  8. T

    CV32mm on a GS750E

    Are you sure it’s not leaking from the two vent hose connections ….. One between 1 and 2 and another between 3 and 4?
  9. T

    Electric problem, or gas/vacuum?

    If you mean motor runs (not just cranks over)…with starter button pushed in, could be kill switch grounding out when you release button. Consider using a small jumper wire to activate starter solenoid directly, thereby eliminating right switch and its wiring…it’s the small wire on solenoid that...
  10. T

    Cannot start GS700ES, no spark

    In case the above links fail..look for the 1982 gs1100 to get similar wiring layout…..here’s a typical Suzuki wiring layout. Note that with key “on” ,kill switch in “run” ,12 volt positive is fed to both ignition coils (likely orange/white wire). The ignitor switches each coil negative on/ off...
  11. T

    GS650E Clutch normal ?

    Before I’d take the 6 bolts off the clutch assembly, I’d first put the clutch cover back on temporarily and see if relocating the clutch lever arm on housing pivot bolt takes up any surplus slop…..and helps the hand lever/cable gain more throw to separate plates.
  12. T

    GS1100E fuel level sender float retention?

    Does it look like this setup from eBay? I’d guess the rod snaps in a slot in float ..and maybe epoxied.. but I’ve yet to investigate ! https://www.ebay.com/itm/256207503915?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ATKgUhFsQT-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ARSR0K5ISZu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  13. T

    Shaft driven GS clutch adjustment

    On the 650 shanties, best to first orient the clutch lever arm so that it angles slightly inward as in picture. Then fiddle with cable . When all is well, you get push on lever arm and get a small bit of play before you feel clutch engage.
  14. T

    Interchangeable cdi units?? Help

    ”If I oder the dyna ignition do I need a new ignitor?“ As mentioned above, the dyna has it own ignitor setup on its own plate. There is a dyna supplied bushing that links the stock crankshaft/ timing advance to the stationary dyna plate.. Make sure you have the stock mechanical advance setup...
  15. T

    Good places to tap into to get power but only when the bike runs

    The horn is an easy spot to get 12+ power that is switched “on” with key. That’s where I got my juice for my running lights.
  16. T

    Cannot find air mixture screw anywhere

    That mixture screw looks odd….considering my 650 ones. Plus this eBay guy has ones that look different from your pic https://www.ebay.com/itm/305073568799?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=YRXifaZBQQ2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=ARSR0K5ISZu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  17. T

    1982 GS300L Not Running Well

    I admired persistence! My guess is your pilot circuit is not right…these critters spend a lot of time on pilot circuit before main jet takes over as revs go up. Hopefully, your buddy did not drill out the pilot, but who knows… start over, remove carbs and properly clean them. and check jet...
  18. T

    Stator and R/R Replacement on a 650G

    Remove battery….behind here is a plate shown in Rich’s parts layout. R/R is on bottom of this plate , ignitor is on top. Best to remove two bolts holding this plate and swing it up so you remove the r/r….swingarm makes it impossible otherwise to remove it. But first you can do the stator tests...
  19. T

    1982 GS300L Not Running Well

    Nice looking bike….. when you were lurking, it would have been best to heed the warnings about typical issues with these critters. The carbs likely just needed proper cleaning….not replacement kits with likely inferior parts. As you already surmised, your mechanic did you no favors, sadly. Valve...
  20. T

    Need a different carb perspective

    Start by getting a new petcock…it’s most likely your problem…or will be soon. But you can test old unit by pulling off vac line at number 2 carb nipple and ensuring fuel doesn’t flow unless you suck on it in “on or res” spot.That’s a lot of fuel flow in 30 miles, so beware of fuel overflowing...
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