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Thread: Earl's Brake Line Thread

  1. #11
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    Value:

    - You can pick whatever hose end angles you desire. This is particularly valuable when using non stock handlebars and/or a master with the fluid port in a different position than stock.
    - Length is up to you. Again, this is particularly important when moving to different handlebars.
    - All parts made in USA
    - Pull off force for screw together lines is higher than crimp lines (per the owner of AN Plumbing).
    - Price is good. 4 piece line kit can be made for about $100.
    - Fancy colored anodized aluminum and uber durable stainless steel hose ends are available if you desire such things.
    - Making your own lines is FUN!

  2. #12
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    Thanks Ed for the instructions and pictures. I think I'll go this route next time also. The ones I bought at that other place I wont mention. The "clock" was off about 15 minutes (90) on the line from front master cylinder to the coupling block. It still worked, but the line did not lay like it should have. You see in the attached picture how the line makes a funky bend...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by storm 64; 11-22-2017 at 12:38 PM.
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by storm 64 View Post
    Thanks Ed for the instructions and pictures. I think I'll go this route next time also. The ones I bought at that other place I wont mention. The "clock" was off about 15 minutes (90) on the line from front master cylinder to the coupling block. It still worked, but the line did not lay like it should have.
    Getting the clocking just right is desirable for sure.

    In case the above is not fully clear...

    Install the hose-end nut on the hose end and spin it until it stops and then use a sharpy to mark the full tight spot on the hose end and one of the nut flats. When installing the hose end, stop 1/2 turn short of fully tight. Don't worry, at this point the ferrule and teflon liner is fully seated inside. Now install the second hose end, after likewise marking, and watch your clocking as you come up to full tight. Between the two ends you can get the clocking perfect even when using non adjustable hose ends. Or get one adjustable hose end per assembly and disregard everything I just said. Either way works!
    Last edited by Nessism; 11-22-2017 at 01:05 PM.

  4. #14
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    Question ED. Does the vinyl outer sheathing float or is it more or less fixed in position, as in can you slide it to one end and then just shrink tube the other end instead of both?
    '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/

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    The coating doesn't slide Sandy. If you are careful you can minimize how much you cut off though. It just gets more fiddly with getting the olive/ferrule installed inside and seated.

  6. #16
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    Looks good, Ed, I just have a couple of questions.

    1. You show a metal block with a couple of holes in the "tools required". I only saw it used as a cutting anvil. Is that all it is?

    2. I did not see any link to a source. Are these parts easily available virtually everywhere, or is there a preferred vendor?

    This is on my list of things to do this winter, on at least two bikes. I think the third one was done before we got it.

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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve View Post
    Looks good, Ed, I just have a couple of questions.

    1. You show a metal block with a couple of holes in the "tools required". I only saw it used as a cutting anvil. Is that all it is?

    2. I did not see any link to a source. Are these parts easily available virtually everywhere, or is there a preferred vendor?

    This is on my list of things to do this winter, on at least two bikes. I think the third one was done before we got it.

    .
    Aluminum block is indeed a cutting anvil. You can cut the hose other ways too as shown in the video link such as using a dremel cut off tool. If you use one of these cut slow though because the heat will be high.

    The original post has links to a source. Please go back and check close since the links are hidden inside the text.

    Good luck

  8. #18
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    A nice, clean upgrade of the previous information. Great photos, clear directions.

    If it isn't a sticky yet, it should be.


    Thanks for taking the time to post it up, Ed.
    '83 GS650G
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nessism View Post
    The original post has links to a source. Please go back and check close since the links are hidden inside the text.
    Thanks. I saw the text, did not notice it was a link, because I have underlines turned off in my browser.

    .

    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
    Family Portrait
    Siblings and Spouses
    Mom's first ride
    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
    (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

  10. #20
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    Did this on both my bikes. Easy, solid, cheap, and you are left with some knowledge and a new skill. One thing to add, if you are into neatness, you can slip some heat-shrink onto the lines before assembly then shrink it over the cut plastic coating and hose end to seal it from any crud getting between the plastic and steel sheath, on the black lines it looks very neat and finished.
    1983 GS 1100 ESD

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