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1/4 throttle stumble

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kapoor
  • Start date Start date
Thank you thank you thank you. Tonight I threw in those pilot jet 45's replacing the old pilot jets which were apparently size 42 (even smaller than I originally thought), and now all my throttle problems are gone! I guess the combination of increasing the main jets, and the pilot jets, as well as some fine tuning and everything is good to go...

Except for the backfiring issues. :mad: So tomorrow I'm going to check the valve clearances and see what's going on. Currently the mixture screws are 2.5 turns out with the needle shimmed from ~2.56mm (stock) to ~2.07mm, with 117.5 main jets, and 45 pilot jets, and stock everything else. Any ideas where to start to look other than the valve clearances? Also should I start a new thread about this new problem? And could it be from fouled up plugs?
 
How many shim washers on the needle? Was I close?
Glad you got it sorted
Could you have an exhaust leak?
 
chef1366 said:
How many shim washers on the needle? Was I close?
Click to expand...
It took 4 of the radioshack washers. I think they're ~0.5mm in height each. So just a little more gas than stock.

chef1366 said:
Glad you got it sorted
Could you have an exhaust leak?
Click to expand...
You know that's totally possible, when I got the bike the exhaust was missing a clamp where the 2 went into 1. So I'll give that a good look over as well. That'd be nice if that was the only problem. Thanks for the idea. Wouldn't have thought of it otherwise.
 
chef1366 said:
Could you have an exhaust leak?
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was thinking. Those copper crush gaskets are prone to air leaks and poping especially if re-used ! Also, a rust hole underneath near the pipe welds and slip joints is another location prone to leaking. Water condensation sits inside the exhaust pipes causing them to rust.
 
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Road_Clam said:
Exactly what I was thinking. Those copper crush gaskets are prone to air leaks and poping espacially if re-used ! Also, a rust hole underneath near the pipe welds is another location prone to leaking. Water condensation sits inside the exhaust pipes causing them to rust.
Click to expand...

Well when I rebuilt the engine I used all new exhaust gaskets so I wouldn't think it'd be because of them. Also this morning I realized that the sound does sound like it's coming from that faulty spot in the exhaust. I think I need to replace the whole thing since they're pretty roughed up from the last owner (let to rust, lots of missing chrome on the headers, dents all over the underside, and was on the bike when he laid it down) So this problem just might accelerate me buying a new exhaust, I want a 4-1 system but which performs the best and sounds the best? Honestly I'm not sure if I care if it's legal (loud is alright, keeps me from being hit on the road; but real deep like a ducati would be amazing). What do you suggest? Also if I get a new exhaust do I probably need to rejet again to compensate for the difference in pressure?
 
Wellthat'd be alright. So now I got a weird problem. My idle is either stuck between a low (probably 700ish, I'm not sure because my tach has never worked but based on what my car sounds like) or it takes off and sticks at probably 2k or a little higher. I'm planning on taking my throttle cable off and lubing up see if that helps, but honestly it doesn't feel sticky. I guess I was wondering if the new pilot jet could be the cause for the poor idle since it would idle just fine before the change?
 
Did you make sure you put all the rubber caps on over the pilot jets?
 
chef1366 said:
Did you make sure you put all the rubber caps on over the pilot jets?
Click to expand...

Yeah I did, but once it cools down I can check again. Since I changed my pilot and main jets should I take into consideration the other jets? I'm going to buy another set of plugs and do some chops here in the next few days, and I'll report the reults here. thanks again for the input. Always is helpful
 
Kapoor said:
Yeah I did, but once it cools down I can check again. Since I changed my pilot and main jets should I take into consideration the other jets? I'm going to buy another set of plugs and do some chops here in the next few days, and I'll report the reults here. thanks again for the input. Always is helpful
Click to expand...

Can't say I hear too many situations where people have to richen the main circut on a completely stock GS. I'm pretty sure the reason most all bikes come so lean from the factory is to comply with the EPA emissions test method of that peticular era :

Quote:
"The Federal Test Procedure, or FTP, is a specific protocol "designed to measure a vehicle's tailpipe emissions under urban driving conditions," according to EPA regulations. The test is run on a piece of equipment called a chassis dynamometer, as opposed to a track or streets, and it involves a series of accelerations, decelerations, idling, cold starts and hot starts designed to simulate urban motorcycling. It covers a distance of 11 miles. The average speed is 21 mph. The average ambient temperature: 75 degrees. "

So if you absorb this test procedure and you understand the relation to the carb circut you will realize the pilot jet mostly controls the EPA emissions outcome. Hence why the factories jet so lean stock. In the deep south i'm sure a stock pilot jet will be suitable, however up here is the northern states when it drops into the 40's and 50's for ambient temps, the bikes low speed drivability suffers substantially
 
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