I finally motivated myself late Monday night to swap clutch parts with my wifes 1150, as CBX Chris suggested. He said to swap the whole entire clutch including cover to see the result. Well, I sorta did that but mixed a few of my theories in there too.
I pulled mine apart first, for the third time in a month. Then I worked on hers. Laid everything out in their seperate piles.
I took back my Falicon welded stock hub out of her bike, kept my newer inner clutch hub, turned over my Barnett steel plates with the sharper edge facing out (doubt it makes any difference), found old stock fibers, used her rack release, my HD springs, her cover and armature and installed new spring bolts and washers.
It worked! What a total difference. I'm used to pulling the clutch almost all the way to the bar to make shifts and now it slips in effortlessly. Pulling away from stops it was creamy smooth compared to the jerkfest I've been dealing with. Thanks for all the suggestions.
I haven't tryed hers yet. Hopefully, I didn't transfer my problem to her bike. I'll let you know if you care to know when I know. I put older used aftermarket steels and stock fibers in her bike and now she has my new rack release and fresh gasket. Both bikes rolled in first with clutch in when cold. When I wrote the last post it was pretty much locked up.
Two things I noticed; the piano wire on her bike was broken, probably from me trying to reuse it. The other was a beveled washer behind the locking washer behind the large clutch nut. I don't recall this being there on my old 80 1100ET. I have a new one in my toolbox but failed to install on my bike. It appeared, on the sketchy Bike Bandit schematic, that there are two washers behind the clutch nut. Is this true for the 84 1150?
Someone mentioned that the clutch hub may not have been engaged to the oil pump drive tabs causing the clutch stack to be taller than normal. I didn't discover signs of misalignment, but something to remember when locating the clutch hub on the engine. Thanks for reading, Carter
I pulled mine apart first, for the third time in a month. Then I worked on hers. Laid everything out in their seperate piles.
I took back my Falicon welded stock hub out of her bike, kept my newer inner clutch hub, turned over my Barnett steel plates with the sharper edge facing out (doubt it makes any difference), found old stock fibers, used her rack release, my HD springs, her cover and armature and installed new spring bolts and washers.
It worked! What a total difference. I'm used to pulling the clutch almost all the way to the bar to make shifts and now it slips in effortlessly. Pulling away from stops it was creamy smooth compared to the jerkfest I've been dealing with. Thanks for all the suggestions.
I haven't tryed hers yet. Hopefully, I didn't transfer my problem to her bike. I'll let you know if you care to know when I know. I put older used aftermarket steels and stock fibers in her bike and now she has my new rack release and fresh gasket. Both bikes rolled in first with clutch in when cold. When I wrote the last post it was pretty much locked up.
Two things I noticed; the piano wire on her bike was broken, probably from me trying to reuse it. The other was a beveled washer behind the locking washer behind the large clutch nut. I don't recall this being there on my old 80 1100ET. I have a new one in my toolbox but failed to install on my bike. It appeared, on the sketchy Bike Bandit schematic, that there are two washers behind the clutch nut. Is this true for the 84 1150?
Someone mentioned that the clutch hub may not have been engaged to the oil pump drive tabs causing the clutch stack to be taller than normal. I didn't discover signs of misalignment, but something to remember when locating the clutch hub on the engine. Thanks for reading, Carter
