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1978 GS1000E mild performance build (thanks rapidray)

For this build you don't need oversize valves. The stock valves are plenty big. Have the guides, valve job and port work done by a pro. "Star Racing" would be my choice. And I agree with Stetracer, go with the large cam on the intake and the smaller one on the exhaust side. Have the valve job done in a way that you can use shims that are in the "thin" range for reliability and weight saving.....Been there, done that......Billy
 
Have the valve job done in a way that you can use shims that are in the "thin" range for reliability and weight saving Billy.
NOT a good idea for a street motor as the valves WILL pound/wear into the seats requiring THINNER shims to get the valve clearance back.
Ray.
 
I have a set of web cams in my 1085, .425 lift intake and .395 exhaust, I think I had lobe centers at 106/106. Thing ripped and the wheel came off the ground at around 5,000 rpm, hehe. Currently have the motor all apart for a reseal, and getting a valve job, 4 new guides, new springs, retainers, mill, seals, etc from orient express. Costing me about $800 total for the head work. I am going to hone and new rings for the pistons.

Motor has a GRC crank and robinson unercut trans done a few years ago. Outstanding work by the two of them.

I took the motor apart because my rear timing chain tensioner broke, might of over tightened the manual tensioner, oops.
 
Head is with Rapidray for porting and other work
Crank is with John Pearson of Pearson racing for disassembly, cleaning, reindexing, and welding
Gears are being sent to John for undercutting

:-)
 
Head is with Rapidray for porting and other work
Crank is with John Pearson of Pearson racing for disassembly, cleaning, reindexing, and welding
Gears are being sent to John for undercutting

:-)

john does nice head work also...he is the 2 valve master :D
 
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