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1982 GS1100GL ignition

  • Thread starter Thread starter moehme
  • Start date Start date
M

moehme

Guest
Okay guys (and gals), I'm at a loss.

Sorry for the long post, but I'm confused in more ways than one.

This on a 1982 GS1100GL with electronic ignition (no points or condensor).

Had the bike running last week on one cylinder (the number two cylinder). Thought it might be due to a bad connection somewhere or something. Unplugged all three connectors (behind the left side cover), cleaned them with CRC connector cleaner, put it all back together - no change.

Took out all four plugs, checked gap, etc. - everything looked good, but then, I expected that since the plugs are only one year old. Took off the plug caps, snipped off 1/4" (down to good copper), put them back on the wires and tried again. Still runs on one cylinder except it's now running on the number one cylinder.

Started checking everything, beginning with the plugs and worked backwards. Getting 12+ volts at the pos/neg terminals o both coils. Good continuity between the coils and the connectors. All grounds seem to be in good condition. Checked the igniter per Clymers - no spark on either cylinder (one or two) but yet it is running on the number one cylinder. Took the iginter out and popped the cover. Circuit board is clean, no apparent rbeaks in any of the circuits, nothing burnt or looks like it got hot - appearance wise, igniter looks good.

This is where I become confused.
1) Why is it runnung on the number one cylinder when the igniter test (performed numerous times) indicated the igniter is bad.
2) Since you need to create a spark to test the igniter, how could this be done if the coils might be bad? (igniter good + coils bad = no spark AND igniter bad + coils good = no spark, correct?).
3) Is it possible 3 of the 4 "newer" plugs all of a sudden go bad at the same time?

Please help, the weather is starting to get nice here in the midwest and I want to ride.

Thanks
 
It's fixed ! ! ! ! ! !

It's fixed ! ! ! ! ! !

Began troubleshooting the problem and decided to start with the simplest things first. Installed new plugs - runs great. Hard to believe since I just put new ones in last year. Oh well, I'm not going to complain, $10.70 for 4 new plugs and I'm on the road again.

(This would also explain why I didn't get a spark when I tested the igniter).

Just a suggestion, but don't immediately assume the worst when trying to figure out the cause of a problem.
 
Installing new plugs is my next move as well.

Last year she ran strong, this year anything over 6500 she intermittently breaks up, and not always at the same RPM.

I removed the K&N uni for giggles and it still acted up, so my next cheap move is new plugs. I can guarantee they are at least two years old. I will report back with my findings.
 
Well,

I installed new plugs and she still breaks up intermittently over 6500 but runs strong as can be under those R's, so as for now the hunt will continue.

I do have a 1.5 drop at the coils, but I would imagine that even at 12.7 (B+ is 14.2 when it's running) she should run strong. The odd ball is that it was just peachy last year on the big end, maybe I need to lower my floats some more.
 
Did you check the plugs for spark grounding them to the head?
Are your carbs clean?
 
Chef,

See new post as I did not want to hijack.
 
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