1982 GS450TX, First Rebuild and First Real Bike

[Davidov]

Hey everyone, my name's Brandon and here's my build thread.

I've worked on scooters for a while now (transmission work, carb and engine rebuild, a bore kit, along with maintenance and tuning) and so I have the basics of bike mechanics down at this point, but obviously a GS is a fair bit more complicated than a chinaped. Bought this bike off Craigslist as a basket case a couple of days ago for $200, most parts are there but I'm sure there are a few missing, I haven't gotten to laying them all out on a cloth yet. I'll be doing that today while scrubbing rust out, so I'll have a full inventory of what I need later. As it is, everything looks to be in fairly good shape, I went and got a shop manual and parts diagrams, now there's just actually checking and building parts.

That I know of now, things that need to be addressed are:
-Wiring harness is an absolute mess, there's tape all over the place, no main tube.
-Killswitch has been bypassed and removed
-Left switch cluster and airbox are apparently missing
-Bearings all need a good cleaning and a coat of grease
-Tank had a little gas left in it which concerns me, though it didn't look rusty at first glance, which is a plus

I'll post more as I do and find out more, here's the link for my build album:
https://plus.google.com/photos/1128...ms/5874855075252456497?authkey=CIqexpqdy7GzfQ

 

[eil]

Good luck, looks like quite the project!

Don't forget to add "rebuild all braking components and replace OEM lines with stainless steel ones" to your list.

 

[Davidov]

Good luck, looks like quite the project!

Don't forget to add "rebuild all braking components and replace OEM lines with stainless steel ones" to your list.

Ah, thank you, and will do. Where would you recommend getting lines from?

 

[Guest]

Welcome Brandon! Looks like a fun project

The frame seems to be designed around the airbox on our 450's so it being missing could be a blessing in disguise

Just make sure if you do go down the pod filter path, buy good quality ones (like K&N) and spend the time to get the carbs jetted to suit.

I got my braided line from Apex brake lines on eBay. Great price and no dramas, nearly 15000km's on it so far and counting.

 

[Davidov]

Lessons I learned today:
-Use a torque wrench. Seriously, USE A TORQUE WRENCH. Even if you don't think you need one for this particular bolt, even if you can't find your 1/2" to 3/4" drive adapter, use one. If you don't you might need to, say, repair a sheared-off suspension mount.
-Keep extra mounting hardware on hand, don't expect the basket case you bought to come with every single nut and bolt you'll need.
-Read the diagrams thoroughly if you want to avoid headaches.
-I could do this for my entire life and be a very happy person.

Now, does anyone know if JB Weld will hold a shock on? I know I /should/ refab, saw, and weld the new post on, but I'd rather not.

 

[Davidov]

Another detail, and I have no experience with this area in particular: I can push in the clutch rod with no resistance, and it does not return on its own. Any ideas as to what that might mean?

 

[Guest]

Yes, a torque wrench is an extremely valuable tool!

I wouldn't trust JB Weld with a shock mount....

It sounds like you need to get the right case cover off and see what's happening with the clutch...

 

[eil]

Torque wrench is a good idea yes, but apparently these mounts just break once in awhile without much provocation. My guess is that metal fatigue sets in due to their function and how they're designed.

Agree with pete, that shock mount needs to be welded back on via real metal, not JB Weld. Someone had a thread on here recently about how they fixed theirs, but I can't find it at the moment. I recall that it looked fairly easy.

And about the brake lines, look for an eBay seller called Rennsport Auto. He's in Canada. If you can't find a kit for your exact bike for sale, you just select the closest one and send him a message with your measurements. Very good prices, good communication, and quick turnaround.

 

[Davidov]

Torque wrench is a good idea yes, but apparently these mounts just break once in awhile without much provocation. My guess is that metal fatigue sets in due to their function and how they're designed.

Agree with pete, that shock mount needs to be welded back on via real metal, not JB Weld. Someone had a thread on here recently about how they fixed theirs, but I can't find it at the moment. I recall that it looked fairly easy.

I wouldn't trust JB Weld with a shock mount....

Well, it was only the threads that sheared off, the mounting post itself is still on there (there's a picture of it in my build album), all I'd use the JB Weld for is to keep the shock from sliding off the post. Would there be another way to do that, given I have a centimeter or so of space? Another foreseeable problem with that idea is if I ever need to take the shock off again, it'll be a pain. So good options are: get or make a workable post and weld it on, or get a new frame, which could also help avoid a titling hassle.

It sounds like you need to get the right case cover off and see what's happening with the clutch...

After I took the cover off, unbolted the clutch, and gave the clutch shaft a fresh coat of grease, it worked just fine. Guess it was just stuck somewhere, weird because it didn't seem like it when I was taking it apart.

 

[eil]

Well, it was only the threads that sheared off, the mounting post itself is still on there (there's a picture of it in my build album), all I'd use the JB Weld for is to keep the shock from sliding off the post. Would there be another way to do that, given I have a centimeter or so of space? Another foreseeable problem with that idea is if I ever need to take the shock off again, it'll be a pain. So good options are: get or make a workable post and weld it on, or get a new frame, which could also help avoid a titling hassle.

Hmm. Okay, I didn't realize that it was just the threaded part that snapped off. You have a couple options...

Still not sure I'd use JB Weld. Because when you go to sell the bike, someone will come to the forum and post about how some "idiot PO" used JB Weld to keep the shock secure on the mount.

You could try to thread the remaining nub and secure it with a nut. I can't tell how much clearance there is for that, though.

Are you going to use the grab bar or anything else like a luggage rack that might connect to the shock mount? If not, I don't see why you couldn't just add a washer, drill a hole through the remaining bit of shaft, and install something like a very small hitch pin (or a large cotter pin) through the hole. Make sure the pin ends up snug against the washer and shock eye, you want little to no lateral movement of the shock on the mount while riding. Pad it with some firm rubber washers for good measure. I don't know what the longevity of this fix would be, so you'd have to inspect it fairly often.

If you do need to use that shock mount for more than just the shocks, there's probably no way around fixing it properly. One method that I found (courtesy of chuck hahn) is to hack off the remaining nub, hollow out the shock mount to the diameter of the nub, run a bolt through, and weld it into place. Here's how he describes it:

Get a threaded bolt the same thread as the nut thats long enough to go from the INSIDE of the frame to the end of the existing threads. Next, measure the diameter of the new bolts UNTHREADED SHANK part.

Now, cut the goobered threads off but leave the bigger part the shock rides on. Drill straight thru the entire remaining stud the diameter of the new bolt. Next, cut the head off the new bolt and insert it into the hole you have drilled thru the mount and flush it up with the inside of the frame. Now plug weld the new bolt to the frame and grind any weld you need to to make it look decent and not hit the tire. You basically have made a sleeve from the old mount that will now accept the new "CORE" bolt. Repaint the frame. Follow me ??

EDIT...You want to leave the bigger part the shock rides on because it is already structurally welded to the frame and the new "core bolt" will just help add a little inner stiffness....it will be every bit as strong as if the problem had never happened. And a hardened bolt will be all that much stronger still!!! Go at least a grade 8 hardness

Not simple for a first-timer, but far from insurmountable.

Also, I need a new clutch cover oil seal, but I can't seem to find it anywhere, even on parts diagrams. Any ideas?

Got a pic?

 

[Guest]

Are you looking for the seal that's under the timing cover where the crank comes out for the ignition timing?

If so, it's conveniently on the crankshaft fiche instead of the crankcase cover fiche...

Number 11 part #09283-22013...

 

[Davidov]

Are you looking for the seal that's under the timing cover where the crank comes out for the ignition timing?

That would be the one! I actually had help from Nerobro earlier via #motorcycles, found out it's a seal they used in a wide range of models and still do, so it was really easy to find one once I knew the size. But yeah, just didn't think the seal in the crankshaft diagram would be the same seal. . . Parts fiches aren't always completely intuitive, it seems.

Still not sure I'd use JB Weld. Because when you go to sell the bike, someone will come to the forum and post about how some "idiot PO" used JB Weld to keep the shock secure on the mount.

I suppose that's true, don't ever want to be "that idiot who X".

You could try to thread the remaining nub and secure it with a nut. I can't tell how much clearance there is for that, though.

Are you going to use the grab bar or anything else like a luggage rack that might connect to the shock mount? If not, I don't see why you couldn't just add a washer, drill a hole through the remaining bit of shaft, and install something like a very small hitch pin (or a large cotter pin) through the hole. Make sure the pin ends up snug against the washer and shock eye, you want little to no lateral movement of the shock on the mount while riding. Pad it with some firm rubber washers for good measure. I don't know what the longevity of this fix would be, so you'd have to inspect it fairly often.

Those were suggestions I heard/thought about, another was to drill into the nub about 1/4" deep, thread the inside, and mount it using washers and an M5-ish bolt.

If you do need to use that shock mount for more than just the shocks, there's probably no way around fixing it properly. One method that I found (courtesy of chuck hahn) is to hack off the remaining nub, hollow out the shock mount to the diameter of the nub, run a bolt through, and weld it into place.

I may use it for that in the future, but there is always the option of using one of the other methods for now because it's easier and cheaper, then going back and repairing it that way later, which is probably what I'll do, just want to figure out which method would be best. I probably have just around that 1/4" of nub mentioned earlier, so threading the outside might not work well, given it'd be difficult to lock a bolt in, in any way.

 

[Davidov]

Now, looking forward to when/if I get this running, anyone have experience with DMV/SOS in terms of titling a built cycle that already has a VIN?

 

[Guest]

Now that's something I *can't* help you with I'm afraid...

 

[Davidov]

Haven't been posting often, but--

Everything is put together, at least, started testing electrical and compression yesterday. The neutral indicator doesn't come on (and so kills the starter circuit), and I can't hotwire the starter relay, so something seems to be bad with both of those. I did, however, manage to hotwire the starter motor itself, not without some minor arcing unfortunately. Using that, I tested compression and it was only around 50 psi for both cylinders. It's possible there's not enough oil in there yet for them to seal, but that still seems low, not sure what to do about that. Could be valve clearance, could be I timed it slightly off, could be I set the rings wrong, or the rings are bad, could be gaskets not seating properly. . .

 

[Guest]

Neutral indicator could be a bad ground issue. It's under the sprocket cover on the end of the shift drum. It can get oiled up under there so may just need a clean. Part #36 on the gear shifting fiche, and may require a new O ring part #37. Also make sure the spring #42 is there and that #41 is clean to create the ground.

Are you holding the throttle wide open while checking compression?

 

[Davidov]

Neutral indicator could be a bad ground issue. It's under the sprocket cover on the end of the shift drum. It can get oiled up under there so may just need a clean. Part #36 on the gear shifting fiche, and may require a new O ring part #37. Also make sure the spring #42 is there and that #41 is clean to create the ground.

Went and found the part just in case, I'll order it today if I can't get it working via cleaning and checking connections, thanks!

EDIT: If it makes any difference, the other gear indicators /do/ work.

Are you holding the throttle wide open while checking compression?

*facepalms* No, since I was focusing on holding the battery lead in place. Will re-test, if still low then I'll check my valve timing and clearance, next.

 

[Guest]

Went and found the part just in case, I'll order it today if I can't get it working via cleaning and checking connections, thanks!

EDIT: If it makes any difference, the other gear indicators /do/ work.

In that case it may not be the switch under the cover.

The 6 wires for the other positions are together in a 6 way connector in the harness, but neutral is a separate wire on it's own, so it could simply be something like a dodgy bullet connector.

I'd trace that neutral wire first and make sure it's connected all the way through.

*facepalms* No, since I was focusing on holding the battery lead in place. Will re-test, if still low then I'll check my valve timing and clearance, next.

Don't worry, you're not the first!

 

[Davidov]

So, one wiring harness has wiring that's hacked back to 1985, and the new one keeps burning fuses. What do I do now?

 

[Guest]

My suggestion... choose the one that looks the best, then persevere and carefully clean every single connector with contact cleaner.

I did this thoroughly with my harness and it's pretty good. Not perfect because it's nearly 32 years old but still pretty good.

After cleaning the harness thoroughly and cleaning the kill switch and ignition switch contacts as well as the left/right control contacts, I got a 2v voltage drop at the coils down to about 0.5v which was enough for me not to have to worry about the coil relay mod.

If you are blowing fuses, then it's a matter of disconnecting everything from the harness and connecting things one at a time until you find the culprit.