• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

1985 GS700ES Valve Adjustment

  • Thread starter Thread starter Rkt-Rch
  • Start date Start date
R

Rkt-Rch

Guest
I know this has already been I'm sure talked about !!! But I was getting bored tonight and I cant ride the bike yet anyway !! Still doing the rust in the tank fix !!

I was told or heard that I do not have shims on this model ??? I haven't even looked into it yet.. But will do it tonight if I find the right information. I have no idea when it was last done and I'm sure it could not hurt. It runs great but ?? I would feel better if I know I have done it.

Thanks.
 
The service manual has the adjustment procedure. Basscliff has a free manual download if you don't already have one. In my opinion, shims are easier but to each their own.
 
It has screw adjust rockers as it has a PERFORMANCE motor with 16 valves instead of a TRACTOR motor with only 8! LOL!!! The valves are easy to adjust, & that motor uses a rubber valve cover gasket so you won't need a new valve cover gasket! The valve clearances are .004-.006 of an inch intakes & .006-.008 on exhaust valves. Read the manual & do the adjustment yourself. Make SURE you don't forget to tighten any of the adjustment nuts or it will COST you some money! Ray.
 
rapidray said:
It has screw adjust rockers as it has a PERFORMANCE motor with 16 valves instead of a TRACTOR motor with only 8! LOL!!! The valves are easy to adjust, & that motor uses a rubber valve cover gasket so you won't need a new valve cover gasket! The valve clearances are .004-.006 of an inch intakes & .006-.008 on exhaust valves. Read the manual & do the adjustment yourself. Make SURE you don't forget to tighten any of the adjustment nuts or it will COST you some money! Ray.
Click to expand...

Adjusting the valves on a 700/750 is more difficult than one of the "tractor" motors. For one thing, there are twice as many valves. For another, when adjusting valves on a GS 16V engine it's important to set the lash the same on each valve with the shared rocker or the rocker will twist. Not good. Lastly, the oil lines on the 700/750 get in the way on on some of the valves. Give me an 8v with shims any day.
 
Salty_Dan and I adjusted the valves on his 750ES a couple weeks ago and two of the oil line banjo bolts were snapped off! Those particular bolts don't have much meat on them due to the holes which allow them to function. We guessed that someone tried to remove the lines to get them out of the way for the valve adjustment and snapped them in the process. The 16V engines also tend to eat their cams/rockers more often than the 8V engines which have a super durable valve train. Not saying the 16v engines are bad, just that they are not "all that" to some of us.:)
 
Last edited:
Easy now can't we ALL just get along... I do believe we all have the same LOVE I say for any 2/4/6/8 ?? Iv'e done both 4/8/16/32/64 just kidding about the 64 valves and any verision can be a pain in the #@$@#..

I think I do have the book Ray (already downloaded it )) Thanks .. Glad to know that I can reuse the Gasket (being careful when removing it).

I Think I might even take some pictures... Everybody loves pictures.


Anyway; I do enjoy all the cycle porn and soap operas to read on this sight. Thanks again My tank is already off so getting to the valves should be just pretty easy from the look of it. I kept putting it off thinking I had one of LOW performance motors (( Just Kidding )) mostly not having shims/gasket but Now I know... Heck I didn't even know it had a front fork (single) air schrader valve until I had it a year !!! My bad.. Thanks again and yes it is late.
 
I've done shims and adjustable tappets. Give me the 16 valve anyday.
:D
 
Oh one other tidbit about the 16 valver...........................overtime, the valve gaps tend to tighten up. rather than loosen. So it really isn't ok to push the adjustment intervals too far past 3 to 4K miles, otherwise you might start burning valves.
 
Alright, Got the valve cover off, went over the manual (How To) adjust valves..

.004-.006 are the specs.. Got Go-NO-Go (NEW) feller gauge..
8mm socket with center hole drilled out just enough to put a home made (10-15yrs ago) for another valve adjust job.. (VRF500 Interceptor).

This tool is so simple and rude but works great for fine adustments when setting valves.

My Question is I am going to do this tomorrow and want a GS owners best opinions... From what I can tell by doing a QUICK check the other night is that most of them are tight... .004 side.. Heat=Expand Etc... I know.. And a to tight means burnt valves.. I think .006 on ALL should be safe and give enough for heat effects. What do you think.


P.S. What happens when you decide to take off the valve cover/coils etc...
THEY GET REWORKED !!! The simple oil breather cover is a tease because once you polish that you just can't stop !!! Then; oh yeah I just happen to find some Nice (Purple) yes purple --Don't ask !!! spark plug wires I can use. Anyway it never stops !!
 
ACTUALLY, I just went back to my Factory shop manual and the actual adjustment called for is .004" - .005" or 0.09mm - 0.13mm for both the Intake AND Exhaust valves.

I usually adjust mine to a "tight" .005", which is kind of a "loose" .004".
.006" might be a little noisey, especially when the weather cools down.

From what the shop mechanics have told me, the tightening of these valves between adjustments isn't due to heat, but to the wearing in of the valve seats in the head.

Those purple wires ought to look sharp once installed........................all you need is a purple LED mounted under the tank to increase the look at night. :)
 
Wow, how many miles were on that engine in that article?
Those cam lobes look WAY more worn than mine and I got 109K on my bike.
 
I believe the nuts on the adjusters are actually 9mm, not 8.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top