• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

77-79 VM22SS Carb Help for newb's

  • Thread starter Thread starter jonesti
  • Start date Start date
J

jonesti

Guest
So I've finally found jets that look like they will work for these carbs. Thanks to all the help from folks on here! I decided to bust out the calipers and start measuring up all the jet sizes(the wife keeps wondering why I smell of gas!). For all the newb's like me to this here's a quick reference;
start http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/index.cfm
pilot jets
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Mikuni_Pilot_Jet_VM22_210_C10.cfm
air jet
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Mikuni_Air_Jet_B42_55_C13.cfm
main jet
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Mikuni_Main_Jet_N100_604_C18.cfm
an assortment of mains for the price of 4
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZU...37885QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW#ebayphotohosting

This is going off all the listed measurements so, PLEASE, if anyone sees an error CORRECT ME!!! The debit card is getting ready to take a hit!:-D
 
jonesti said:
Now, hopefully, it's just a question of what sizes to get!
Click to expand...
What mods, if any?
Stock mains for your model are 80 and the pilot 15, correct? Factory jet needle e-clip position 2 ...or 3?
If re-jetting, be sure you do all basic tuning FIRST. Be sure compression is good, valve clearances set, carbs clean and good inner o-rings, floats set, good manifolds and manifold o-rings, clean filters, good spark and correct timing and fresh points/points gapped (if still points), all electrical connections checked/cleaned, clean petcock and clean gas cap venting...
 
Keith you are correct on the on the mains, pilot, and needle clip on 3rd position. I will be running pods, open 4 into 2 exhaust, with a Dyna S ign. I know a 4 into 1 would yield better gains but this is one of the few things I plan on doing were it's purely for looks. The bike is currently completely down to frame and an entire rebuild is in the works. I am at the moment getting ready to do a compression test but have heard that I will not get an accurate read with out the carbs and exhaust on. Any insight?? Next on the agenda are the valves. I have new manifolds and o-rings ordered. Thanks for all your informative posts. You are probably the main member on here thats gotten me this far!!!
 
Thanks for the kind words.
I've never taken compression reads without the exhaust/filters on. I think the reads would be inaccurate.
Sounds like you have some time before committing to jetting parts, but I'll help if I can later.
You might want to try looking up jet kits from various makers and see what jets are/were in their kits, even if not available now. I can tell you that if you try to make the stock jet needles work, they will most likely only have a chance with the e-clip in the bottom (richest) position. But I've never jetted a 550 for the stock exhaust (correct?) with the mufflers removed. I'd still think the richest position though. With that exhaust choice you'll have a better chance of not needing the more tapered jet kit jet needles. I think the stock pilot jets will work with the help of richer pilot fuel screw adjustments. Remove the two float bowl vent lines of course and set the side air screws using the highest rpm method.
That leaves just the main jets. If you get jet kit info, go with that, or if other 550 owners with the SAME mods chime in, you can consider their suggestions. If no help comes, I'd probably try 3 or 4 FULL sizes up (15 to 20) for the filters, and 1 or 1 1/2 sizes up (5 to 7.5) for the muffler removal. If correct, that total range would be 20 to 27.5 larger. So I'd probably try something in the middle, about 102.5 or 105 Mikuni mains. Remember this is just a guess as I have little experience in jetting with the stock pipes. Stock pipes and pods are not a good flow match and it makes guessing more difficult.
While the engine is apart and if you are able to, I suggest checking the cam timing if you didn't think of it. Cam timing is very important. It can be "way off" direct from the factory as they set them to within an acceptable range that's not always optimum. If interested, try asking others or looking up stock cam info on your model. I'd think right around 108 degrees for both would be a nice compromise between torque and HP. Just a suggestion. Depends what you want out of the engine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top