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77 GS550 clutch is stuck! - plus a tuning question.

  • Thread starter Thread starter mehall2
  • Start date Start date
M

mehall2

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I haven't decided to tackle this problem until I got the bike running. I wanted to see if some warm oil running around might help "un-stick" my clutch. Unfortunately, after running up to temp, it's still stuck. So let me first define "stuck". I've never been able to pull the clutch lever to engage the clutch. I've inspected cable and the clutch cover. No problems there. I can pull the clutch pin out about an inch or so but can't get it all the way out like I could on my old Kawi. Don't know it that's normal.

Any ideas about getting this "un-stuck". I'm reluctant to take the hammer to the clutch pin because I don't want to bend it. I've heard of some folks doing this with a block of wood but I'm afraid I'd need a second opinion on that before going at it. Just wanting some ideas before I drain the oil and go in to inspect from the basket side.

Oh, and after Dyna coils, wires, and pickups to replace the coils, the motor came to life! When I bump the throttle it takes a while to come down though. I mean it sounds good, no popping but this needs to be resolved before it goes on the road - any ideas out there on that? I have the fuel screw 1 turn out and the air screw 1.75 turns. K&L rebuild kit has the stock jetting for me since I'm running the stock airbox and exhaust. I've tried playing with the timing and the air screw but still have no luck. Float height is set to spec so Im wondering if I need to go in a little with the fuel screws. I suspect it's a little rich but I need to pull the plug to take a look.


Cheers,
Mark
 
It is normal on this model for the clutch rod to only pull out about 1" and then stop. It needs to be withdrawn from the clutch basket side if if you need to remove it.
 
Just an update - I went ahead and pulled a couple of plugs to confirm that it is indeed running rich. I wonder if I should lower the float height about 1-2 mm or go in on the fuel screw 1/2 turn first?
 
Do a proper set of plug chops before you change anything, you don't even know which circuit is rich yet.
Is your clutch still stuck?

If it is, ride it around slowly in first gear, with the clutch lever squeezed in all the way, and crack the throttle on and off, get the driveline snatch working in your favor until the clutch frees up. It will work normally after that.
It's pretty much normal for a wet clutch to get stuck if it sits very long, some do some don't.
 
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Well, the bike is running well now with the exception of the carb slides sticking. I can spray carb cleaner on the slides and lube them with a little WD40. They will be great for a few minutes until the engine warms up and they start sticking bad again. I'm thinking I need to take the slides out and take some 0000 steel wool to them and try it again.

The clutch is still stuck unfortunately. The problem is that the lever will not press the clutch pin in. Once I solve the sticking carb slides problem and the bike is safe, I'll do the rolling start and kick it into first. Maybe that will free it up.

Mark
 
mehall2 said:
Well, the bike is running well now with the exception of the carb slides sticking. I can spray carb cleaner on the slides and lube them with a little WD40. They will be great for a few minutes until the engine warms up and they start sticking bad again. I'm thinking I need to take the slides out and take some 0000 steel wool to them and try it again.

The clutch is still stuck unfortunately. The problem is that the lever will not press the clutch pin in. Once I solve the sticking carb slides problem and the bike is safe, I'll do the rolling start and kick it into first. Maybe that will free it up.

Mark
Click to expand...

If you haven't need to tear the carbs completely down and dip them. That will get rid of whatever goo is making the slides stick. Check the diaphragms for pinholes while you've got them off.
 
mehall2 said:
The clutch is still stuck unfortunately. The problem is that the lever will not press the clutch pin in.
Click to expand...
Remove the cable. Can you move the cable by itself? If not, replace the cable.

If the cable moves freely, you will probably have to remove the clutch cover to see what's going on inside there.

.
 
Thanks DRGONZO. I actually have dipped them in berrymans after a carefull disassembly making sure no rubber or plastic parts went in there. These are the VM carbs so there are just slides and no diaphragms here. Will be trying the steel wool method to smooth them out later today after doing my domestic chores for the Mrs.
 
mehall2 said:
Thanks DRGONZO. I actually have dipped them in berrymans after a carefull disassembly making sure no rubber or plastic parts went in there. These are the VM carbs so there are just slides and no diaphragms here. Will be trying the steel wool method to smooth them out later today after doing my domestic chores for the Mrs.
Click to expand...

I always forget to look at the year in the headline. Both GS I've owned were CV carbs, so always forget about VMs.
 
If the bike has a hanging idle it's most likely the intake boot O-rings, unless you changed them already. Regarding the clutch, did you remove the cable?
 
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