78 GS750E Dead Battery Quest...or is that Question?

[jots7]

HI All,

I have recently considered selling my 78 GS750E...primarily because I have gone through three batteries in three years and just don't have the energy to battle starting the bike anymore. I have assumed a short but am now thinking there is a R/R and/or stator problem. The question is should I enter on the quest to find the solution or should I pass the problem along? I'd feel better about myself if I could pass along the bike with a properly working electrical system. There is the story....here is my real question(s).
How bright is it to skip the diagnosis part and just purchase, then install a new R/R and/or stator. I have read (and probably misinterpreted) that if I buy an R/R it might fry the current stator, or that a non-functional stator might then fry the new R/R. I believe that the R/R on my bike is already aftermarket so it may or may not be fine. I do have a volt meter but not a bunch of free time with three boys under 5 and a wife. Thoughts?
Further info: Bike will start after several minutes of battling with the kick starter...once warmed it starts regularly with the kick starter until left overnight. There is enough juice typically in the battery for lights to work but not to use the starter. When freshly charged the starter appears to work fine but dies out quickly which I assume means that the battery no longer accepts a full charge. Battery has been charged several times using a battery charger and has been charge again last night. I am planning to purchase a new battery today (again!). Sorry for being longwinded.

 

[tkent02]

Spend twenty minutes with a multimeter, you will know.
Go through the tests in "the Stator Papers" on this site.
Mostly it's a problem with poor electrical connections which cause all the other problems.
Batteries, stators, R/Rs don't just fail for the heck of it, corroded connectors is the cause.

Or pass it along to someone who will. Like me.
What's your location?

 

[jots7]

I agree that it probably doesn't take too long to play with the multimeter a bit. I have downloaded and printed off 'testing the stator' from BassCliff and 'fault finding chart' from electrosport. Any thoughts how a new R/R and an old or new stator might impact the other? I am concerned about damaging newly purchase parts if that seems the correct response to the multimeter testing. Thanks

 

[tkent02]

No,
go here:

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfaq.htm

Do these tests, they will tell you what you need to know.
What the bike needs is to have every connector in the entire electrical system cleaned.
The tarnish on the connectors does not conduct electricity. This causes resistance, and heat. Next is the sound of expensive parts frying.

It takes a little time to clean everything properly, but the bike will be as reliable as a new one afterwards.

 

[jots7]

I appreciate the direction and should have indicated that WD-40 and a wire brush are my purchase list for today. Do I replace the 'clear' shielding back over the bullet connections after I have cleaned and reconnected them or is electrical tape o.k.? I am concerned about damaging the old plastic shielding during removal. I have previously read the stator papers but I'll look more closely again and I guess I have to get started 'doing'. Thanks again

 

[tkent02]

Use contact cleaner, WD douche doesn't dissolve the tarnish.

Heat shrink tubing is great for the insulators.

 

[Steve]

How bright is it to skip the diagnosis part and just purchase, then install a new R/R and/or stator. ... I do have a volt meter but not a bunch of free time with three boys under 5 and a wife. Thoughts?

My thoughts are that the "brightness" of this approach is rather DIM.

Since you already have the voltmeter, all it will take is about 15 to 30 minutes of your time, it does not have to be all at one time. You can also use your oldest son to help him learn how to read the meter and help you with the bike. Nothing fancy, he will just need to know a couple of numbers.

Further info: Bike will start after several minutes of battling with the kick starter...once warmed it starts regularly with the kick starter until left overnight. There is enough juice typically in the battery for lights to work but not to use the starter. When freshly charged the starter appears to work fine but dies out quickly which I assume means that the battery no longer accepts a full charge. Battery has been charged several times using a battery charger and has been charge again last night. I am planning to purchase a new battery today (again!). Sorry for being longwinded.

Go ahead and get your new battery, but please charge it fully and properly before ever putting a load to it. The WORST thing you can do for a new battery is to simply drop it into the bike and hit the starter.

If your bike is that hard to start, it's not all battery-related. Sounds like you might need to clean the carbs, and it will definitely help to adjust them properly. Another common cause of hard starting is mis-adjusted valves. The valves tighten up on our bikes and tight valves make it hard to start. It may sound funny, but, with properly-adjusted valves and carbs, you could probably start the bike by using your hand on the kick starter.

.

 

[jots7]

Thanks Steve and I conceed that general maintainence (Ex. carb cleaning) need also be performed. I read the carb cleaning primer on the GS site last spring and it would be a good project to initiate. This is my first bike and this website made it the best I could have stumbled upon.
I have a Sear's Diehard 2/10/50 amp battery charger. I have been using the 2 amp setting overnight. Is this a proper method for charging or should I take it to autozone?
Your comment about the kickstarter is intersting. I have wondered for a while what a normal functioning kick starter would behave like.

 

[tkent02]

He's right, push it through by hand, it should be running already.
If it won't start that easily, there is a problem that needs to be fixed.
You shouldn't ever need a charger, unless the bike sits for several months.

 

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. jots7,

Shortly after I got my bike it developed charging issues. All the charging components were stock original so after going through the Stator Papers, cleaning up and repairing some wiring, I decided to bite the bullet and replace the battery, stator, and r/r unit all at the same time. I figured I would then have all "known good" parts and a good baseline for further troubleshooting. A good used r/r from Mr. duaneage and an Electrosport stator will cost about $160. Clean up all your wiring connections, grounds, fuse box, ignition switch, etc, or you will be replacing parts again. Don't ask me how I know.

Anyway, I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...

Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Steve]

I have a Sear's Diehard 2/10/50 amp battery charger. I have been using the 2 amp setting overnight. Is this a proper method for charging or should I take it to autozone?

Definitely don't use anything higher than the 2 amp setting.

Is this an "automatic" charger? An automatic charger will taper the charge as it approaches 'full', and that is good. Read this guide for how to properly initialize a new battery.

Probably the last thing you want to do is take the battery to Auto Zone for charging. No offense to the couple of members that I know work at Auto Zone, but they are interested in charging the battery and getting you out, so might tend to do it at a higher rate. Do it yourself. Read the guide I linked above, do it right.

.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

I would not leave a 2 amp charge on overnight. 4-5 hours max !!! 10-12 hours will over charge the battery which may be why you have replaced it every year

 

[jots7]

Thanks BassCliff I have read most info from your webpage and the visuals and explainations are impressive.

Steve...yes the charger is automatic and I am under the impression that it will prevent overexcessive charging. I appreciate the input SgDancer...

 

[1_v8_merc]

Yeah be very careful with a manual charger!

I had one of those big clunky Die Hard battery chargers for cars, and was using that on my bike.....it gave my battery one hell of a fast charge, but it also nearly fried my battery out......the battery would only get a handful of cranks before it was dead again!

I went out and bought a very small Auto charger at walmart for like $20.
It was specifically for jetskiis, bikes,atv,tractors, and small utility vehicles.

Works like a charm! I can crank the starter all day long and it still holds a charge.

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Make sure the charger you are using is okay.
And check the Stator papers or go on Bike Cliffs website, he has some simple guides that show some quick ways to tell if the problem really IS your battery.

You could also check your wiring harness connections, I like to start from the back to the front, check the fuse box too.
There is a ton of connectors inside the headlight assembly so check those out too!

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If you simply don't have enough time to work on the bike, then you may want to sell it. Im not going to sit here and tell you to keep working on it, because if you have a neglected bike, you could be dumping quite a bit of money into it replacing parts because of previous owner neglect and 20 or 30 years of age.

But if you have a decent bike, it really shouldn't need too much.

If you want to try and sell it, then use that cash towards a Newer bike, that MIGHT be your best bet, if you don't have the time to work.


You pay for what you get, usually these vintage bikes need some work to catch up with the times! But once you get some small things like that done to them, they run just as good as any other bike!
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Trust me, im learning this the hard way too....