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79 GS 1000SN Carb/air box reinstall?

  • Thread starter Thread starter fishnetter
  • Start date Start date
F

fishnetter

Guest
OK Gentlemen;

Putting my 79 Wes Cooley back together,and i need to know the easiest way to get the carbs,and air box,back onto the bike,seperatly,or apart from each other?i would think seperatly,but it hasn't worked out that way for me yet.the area seems just to tight to squeez he carbs into place,with the air box installed in it's rightful place. seems there is a trick i'm missing on this. i've had them off before many,many years ago,and i just can't seem to squeeze them in there together,or apart. the carbs,air box,air cleaner box are all off of the bike right now.
Also, i did a rebuild on the fuel tank pet cock with new gaskets and such,and when i put fuel in the tank to test it,there are 3 positions, "on", "Pri","res". when off the bike,and fuel in the tank,should fuel come out in all 3 positions? or should 1 position be like an "off" position,when the tank is off the bike? seems to me when i used to take the tank off in years past for maintainence work,it wouldn't come out in 1 position.
Thanks gentlemen for your help. this bike is very close now to being whole again,since being apart since 1996!
 
On mine i put the airbox in place but dont bolt it in..just leave it loose. Wiggle in the crabs and wiggle the airbox at the same time.. Get the carbs in the boots and clamps tight, then do the box.If you put the carbs in first youll soon realise the box wont go to the front of the bike far enough to clear the frame. And i have yet to figure out how to put them in as a unit.
 
I use a hot air gun to heat the rubbers , then a bit of WD40 to make it all slippery . Makes it a lot easier to "force" everything into place . Force the carbs into the airbox rubbers and do up the clamps (I got some narrow stainless ones - very goodly) . Force the carbs forward into the rubbers on the head and do the clamps up . Much swearing is involved . Then secure the airbox to the frame .

Fuel will only run out of the petcock (that STILL makes me laugh) in the "prime" position . To get fuel out in the "run" position , you'll need to have the vacuum line from #3 carb connected to the petcock . I have disconnected the vacuum line and blanked both ends (at the carb and at the petcock) . I start and run on "prime" and turn the tap to "run" when the bike is not running .

Goodluck with it all .

Cheers , Simon . :)
 
It sounds like your carb boots are stiff

Maybe new ones are in order

Put the airbox in place. Slide the carbs in from the right side, with the backs above the rear boots, tilted down to go in the intake boots. Start working the carbs into the front. Use a screwdriver to start working the rear boots part way up the carbs. Repeat until the front of carbs are in the intake boots and you're working the rear boots over the back of the carbs

Easy. A lot easier if the boots are soft

Your petcock should only flow gas on Prime. The vacuum opens it on On and Reserve
 
chuck hahn said:
May as well replace the intake pipe orings if you havent already....
Click to expand...

Very important detail here.

As the others have said, install the airbox first and then the carbs. I also suggest you install the carbs to the airbox first, and then shove the whole mess into the boots on the head. Good fun...not. I've never tried the heat trick but it seems like a good idea.
 
Thank you gentlemen;

I kinda was thinking he boots are a bit hard. i do have an excellent heat gun. guess i'll give it a try again tomorrow,or next weekend,when i find the time.
Sounds like my petcock isn't right. fuel comes out on all 3 positions. damn,now i gotta figure that out. must have put something inside in the wrong way or something.any thoughts? really don't want to uy some lousy aftermarket petcock unless i have to. there only appears to be a couple,and 1 place i called the guy says i have to "modify" the tank to get it in. definatly don't want to alter anything on this bike.any ideas on this?
 
You can get a diaphragm kit for them . Coupla bucks .
I've never checked my fuel tap (petcock) but I guess that you'll get flow from the reserve with no vacuum applied .
You shouldn't get fuel running out with the tap pointing straight down (run) but you should have a good flow with it either pointing forward (res) or backwards (pri) .

Cheers , Simon . :)
 
simon kuether said:
You can get a diaphragm kit for them . Coupla bucks .
I've never checked my fuel tap (petcock) but I guess that you'll get flow from the reserve with no vacuum applied .
You shouldn't get fuel running out with the tap pointing straight down (run) but you should have a good flow with it either pointing forward (res) or backwards (pri) .

Cheers , Simon . :)
Click to expand...

Nope, prime only
 
Your rebuild on the petcock may have failed.
Check Z-1 for new petcock around 60 bucks.
For a GS1000 check out part # 18-4358
If its an 80 GS1000 with CV carbs check E-bay, 80 petcock always available.
 
Rover;

Nope,i have a 79, and i'm all over E-Bay all the time. the Z-1 part is the 1 the guy told me i need to "modify". man, you would think that there is someone around that could fix this for me. heck,i'm not stupid,i must have put the darn pieces inside together wrong.anyone rock solid on the knowledge on how,and what position these things go together in? it must be something out of place. i know 1 of the pieces hase 1 hole in it in one corner(diaphram). maybe it's that?
I did get the carbs back on today.
BigT, thanks,your suggestion worked beautifully! they are in place.Thanks you!
Ant more thoughts or ideas on this pet cock issue would be greatly appreciated! maybe one of you know someone here in the central valley of California that can fix this thing. this is the only issue holding me up from getting this bike running again,after being apart since 1996. HEEEEEEELLLLLPPPPP!!! tHANKS AGAIN!
 
Any more suggestions on where to get the pet cock fixed, or a place i can buy one without any modifications?
 
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