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79 GS1000L backfiring, sometimes r-pipe smokes at start-up

  • Thread starter Thread starter gwhunran
  • Start date Start date
After new non-Suzuki boot/manifold install bike did not run "right" on the way home. I suspected something to do with the new boot because that was the last thing touched. Yesterday my new used tach arrived courtesy of an ebay auction. After putting it on, the needle did not move, but it lit up, the gas gage worked, and it had good glass. My old one sorta worked but the glass was broken and I broke the needle trying to pull out pieces of broken glass. I had glued it back on but it was not perfectly straight anymore and I had a piece of plastic taped over the top to keep water out. Anyway on my commute to a seminar today the new one started working perfectly and worked right the rest of the day. On my way home, I had to go by the cycle shop that put the new boots on. I decided to stop by and see if they could determine why it was running like crap after the new boot instal. The mech and I went over everything. The carbs seemed to be set okay, the boots positively were not leaking, and we were pretty much stumped. One more item, I failed to mention. Header one is pretty cool, header two hot, header three not as hot as two, header four hot. We decided to check spark again at plugs, it turns out that the plugs were firing but acting funny, if boot firmly attached to #1 cylinder running weak, if boot a inch or so off plug cylinder ran strong, if farther off cylinder dead as it should be. We decided to change the pretty new plug with new plug and guess what??? Bike runs great all cylinders running as they are supposed to. Drove bike home from shop, about 15 miles fast interstate, heavy traffic, and it ran super. I am very pleased.

The mech said that the Kaw. manifold boot seals strong the way its designed. The guy (Ron or Rob) at Cycle/Recylce said the same thing about that boot for the GS series year of my bike. He said he had sold many of them and had no problems. Only thing necessary is to oval out the screw holes a little with a rat-tailed file and the fit is perfect. Mech confirmed what Cycle/Recycle said about fit and function. I don't know how to explain the design without the o-ring but a rubber area mates up withe the motor intake as part of its design.

Richard
Richard
 
update

update

I almost have the bike fixed to my satisfaction. Thanks to Jeff at Z1 Enterprises I was able to eliminate one possible cause of my #3 header being cooler. I had recently installed a Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Coils, and new Dyna plug wires. I got the Dyna-S and wires at Z1 Enterprises. I did not have the cool header before installing the parts. Jeff was good enough to send me a replacement set of wires. I thought he was sending me some known good used wires to troubleshoot with. I was pleasantly surprised to get a new set of dyna wires in the mail.

I changed out the number three plug wire, no joy, still had cool pipe. I then went back into the timing and still had 1&4 dead on but I wasn't happy with 2&3, and couldn't get it perfect with throughout the range of adjustment with the pick-up, so I went back to the gross adjustment on the plate and moved it, and then readusted 1&4, then was able to get 2&3 to be perfect. Still had cool #3 header.

I decided it was time to take the plunge and tear all the carbs down to "parade rest" and clean them using the Dip, then rinsing, scrubbing, and poking, and air blowing. I then replaced the o-rings from a R. Barr kit. I even managed to put it all back together and reinstall it on the bike without breaking anything, and it even cranked right up, but would only run with the choke engaged until I fiddled with the air screws some. Then I synced with the morgan carbtune. Now all the headers are nice and hot. I still haven't got the carbs all adjusted perfectly(air/fuel mix), but I am pleased with what I accomplished. I wasn't too confident before I turned the key.

Note: I moved the spacer on the needle jets to the next to last richest position due to Keith K's prior suggestion that the dead middle postion might not be rich enough. Don't know yet if its right, not enuough riding yet.

The bike continues to be pretty powerful. Getting into it pretty hard, it lifts the front wheel several inches going from 1st to 2nd, and from 2nd to 3rd. I didn't know the old bike still had it.
 
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