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81 GS650L - No Explosions (starting)

  • Thread starter Thread starter danex
  • Start date Start date
D

danex

Guest
Howdy. A bit of an update:

Had the carbs professionally cleaned and rebuilt. New gaskets, o-rings, etc. Did a general setup and said, "pop it in, and it should start, then bring it up for final tweaking."

Got it home, and put everything in today. Everythings tightened. Carbs are definitly good. Petcock is good. Fuel is in the bowls. Tried starter fluid, nothing. Tried push starting, and sounds like it's just spinning the engine. Tried a Charger + Start machine, and the starter spins, but not even a cough.

Haven't done the coil mod or anything. THe bike /used/ to run when push starting (last monday), but has sense become a 500lb floor holder. The original problem was it wouldn't idle. Replaced the choke and throttle. Both cables are working appropriately.

I've taken the plugs out and grounded them to the case, and have some spark (not the biggest, fattest, bluest, but should be enough to get atleast a sputter.) Other than replacing the spark plug wires (have replaced the plugs themselves and properly gapped), what else is likely the problem? I'm looking to the coil mod if that will help, and maybe replace the wires, but if that's not it, I've got no option but to take it into Sharer's in Verona and drop the cash. =(

The lights on the dash come on. One thing I noticed is it's harder to push the bike in first with the clutch pulled, than it is in 2nd...almost like the clutch isn't fully engaging.

Clean gas, too.


-Wits End,
Danex
 
replace the plug caps and trim a bit off the plug leads, see if that improves the spark for you.
 
Would that be enough to kick it over, even if popping the clutch won't?

I'm happy to try it, but I'm also looking for as many bases I can cover. :)
 
Hi Danex,
You said ther is fuel in the bowls, but are you sure the fuel is getting in to the engine? Test it by taking one plug out and smel at the plughole while trying to start the engine.
succes,
Ed
 
You're talking about taking the spark plug out, and smelling the compressed air coming out the hole, yes?

Where would I need to look if it was not getting there? The carbs were professionally cleaned at a shop, soaked and rebuilt. The carbs attach right to the motor, right?
 
Yep, that's what i mean.
I hope someone else will chime in, because until now i never had to take my carbs apart.
Succes,
Ed
 
Do you have the airbox installed?
You primed the float bowls till full?
You have compression?
Do what was stated earlier. See of there is fuel in the combustion chamber.
 
I purchased the materials for the Coil mod, and got half the wiring ready. My Brother in law has the key, so I couldn't see if it'd work. Hopefully tonight (friday).

I'm using 12G wire that's solid core, not stranded. Is that ok?
 
I purchased the materials for the Coil mod, and got half the wiring ready. My Brother in law has the key, so I couldn't see if it'd work. Hopefully tonight (friday).

I'm using 12G wire that's solid core, not stranded. Is that ok?

It will work but is harder to work with. If you have spark (which you do) and you have air (which you do unless you're working in a vacuum chamber) then the only other thing it can be is fuel. Chef mentioned to PRIME the bowls...did you do that? Set the petcock to PRI and wait for 30 seconds or so. Have you checked all of your electrical connections, cleaned them well and treated them to a dose of dielectric grease? Make sure your coils are well grounded (remove them from the frame and scrape the mountings clean and grease) and that your battery isfresh and fully charged. There could be a few things going on here but you need to cover the bases first.
 
I have fuel, I have primed, I have air.

I have a weak spark. I'm hoping this will help. After this, I don't know what else to look at.

I'm really confused why it worked before the carb rebuild, then after the rebuild, it stopped all together.

I guess it /has/ to be eletrical if not even push starting will work if Fuel and Air are present, right?
 
I'd be suspect of the battery as when they show an undercharge, things just don't want to start. It should show 12V+ static.
 
if it was just a spark issue with the coil relay mod it would fire right up. i did it recently and my bike starts cold with no choke on the second spin of the starter.. ( but it won't run long without choke )
 
I give up. I'm taking it into Sharers tomorrow (Saturday). Maybe they can find the problem.

I tried the coil mod by attaching Positives from the coil, tied together to the 87 and 86, switching with the orange/white wires tied together. I had an inline fuse on the positive battery side, and a connection to the neg side.

Drained the battery trying to start it. I've spent two weeks on this @#$@#.
 
Finally!! Kicked over!

Replaced one of the coils, insides were iffy. Ohm meter was showing way out of range, electro tester showed something really wrong.

Got it all hooked up (no coil mod relay, btw). Started with choke on full. Can't give it gas though, as the carbs need to be synced. Almost bought a CDI unit for $175 too.. luckily I didn't have the cash for that. :D

I'm hoping with the carbs synced, it'll idle nicely without choke.
 
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