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81 GS850G Won't Rev over 4000 RPM

  • Thread starter Thread starter GS850GFan
  • Start date Start date
2 steps forward!

Got the piece to fix my gas leak. That's handled, leak fixed.

Now, back to the issue of not revving beyond 4000 rpm. I rode the bike today after fixing the leak. It still did the same thing, not revving

I stopped by a local bike mechanic not far from where I live who works out of his house. I've never been over there before. I told him my problem and he suggested I pull one side of the air box off to see if it makes a difference and it did! The engine revved to 4,000 paused, when I back off a little it revved beyond. I called him up, told him what happened and he thinks that the needle jets are warn out and that's it's running too rich.

More Air = Revving higher.

What do you guys think?
 
You are getting 12.5 V at the battery at all engine speeds? If so you have a problem. You should be getting over 14V at 5000rpm. You have either a wiring problem between the r/r or problems with the r/r itself and/or the stator. Until this is sorted you cannot be sure the ignitor is seeing the correct voltage. In my experience fixing electrical issues like this sorted a lot of other symptoms. For example poor connections to the coils themselves can be responsible for bad firing at high revs.
The motor is basically an air pump. If it won't rev out the first suspect is valve timing. If the chain is out by a tooth the motor suffocates at high revs. You can rev to the red line in neutral which would discount this a little but it still needs checking.
Motor bogging under load can also be too much air or too little fuel. The most critical place for air leaks is between the carbs and the head. Have you replaced the o-rings on that side? If you spray a bit of wd-40 in there at idle the speed can change if there is a leak.
 
UPDATE:

Had to take a short break from this project as I was getting frustrated.
Returned to a low battery, charged it the last few days.

There is definitely as issue with the carbs and the mixture.

The best I can get it to run requires the mixture screws to be at 3-3.5 turns out. Everything I have read says 2.25 or 2.5 MAX. If set at 2.25 the bike will barely start and I can hear it detonating telling me it is LEAN.

So, 3.5 turns out, it runs, but not well, this means it has to be getting MORE air from somewhere to require 3.5 turns out to make the mixture the correct amount.

Riding the bike, with 3.5 turns out and the sides off the airbox fixes the revving issue and it will redline. 2-2.5 turns is super LEAN because it's getting air from some place (remember, intakes are new, airbox rubber rings and air filter are sealed)

SO, 3.5 turns out, airbox open is the ideal mixture.

A local mechanic suggested the Needle Jets may be worn and leaking.

Before I spend the money, what do you think?
 
What ended up happening?? I'm chasing a similar problem on my 81 650g.
 
Start your own thread and folks here will have a go at it!

I agree, start a fresh thread with as much detail as you can give and hopefully the pro's here can help you.

My bike would not rev with the air cleaner sides ON. With out them, it ran great. But that was the best I could do. Real bummer, I loved that machine. Seating position was perfect. PLENTY of power and the sound!:adoration: Going through the gears, hearing that inline four!!!

DAMN IT! I might need to find a nicely sorted one....or maybe a 1000 :cool:
 
You are getting 12.5 V at the battery at all engine speeds? If so you have a problem. You should be getting over 14V at 5000rpm. You have either a wiring problem between the r/r or problems with the r/r itself and/or the stator. Until this is sorted you cannot be sure the ignitor is seeing the correct voltage. In my experience fixing electrical issues like this sorted a lot of other symptoms. For example poor connections to the coils themselves can be responsible for bad firing at high revs.
The motor is basically an air pump. If it won't rev out the first suspect is valve timing. If the chain is out by a tooth the motor suffocates at high revs. You can rev to the red line in neutral which would discount this a little but it still needs checking.
Motor bogging under load can also be too much air or too little fuel. The most critical place for air leaks is between the carbs and the head. Have you replaced the o-rings on that side? If you spray a bit of wd-40 in there at idle the speed can change if there is a leak.

I can't believe that it went to page 5 for the fact that is hasn't been charging to come out.
 
Last edited:
I can't believe that it went to page 5 for the fact that is hasn't been charging to come out.

I did test the charging system and was getting good out put. Over 13+v when rev'd. Rebuilt carbs, replaced manifolds, air box boots, all clamps, air filter. Swapped out multipal jets, flow tuned. Later rebuilt the head, new head gasket, adjusted timing chain, set timing, adjusted valves, cleaned tank, replaced fuel filter and hoses, checked every spark plug for a nice blue arc.

It ran smooth as glass across all ranges, pulled like a train off the line, no stumbles. Just would hit a wall with the air box ends on. Took those off, ran like a dream.

No idea why.

Anyway, best of luck to those that may have this issue. I'm on to greener pastures!

RIDE SAVE EVERYONE!
 
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