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82 650GL breaks up after 5500 RPM

  • Thread starter Thread starter mhobryan
  • Start date Start date
Check the connections to the coils. Very common for them to get dirty and create a voltage drop at the coil. Check plug gap as well. Too large a gap and you could be getting flame blowout. May also need to go up one on the main jet. Adjusting the pilot screws wont help you much at the higher throttle turns. Does sound like you're getting closer though.
 
Plugs are gapped correctly - checked and regapped last month.

If it didn't sputter/break up when I revved in a no load condition (e.g. in neutral) then I would agree, all signals would point to inefficient fuel flow and bigger jets. With no load on the engine, there should be plenty of fuel flow to get it to rev past 5.5k, yet it breaks up.

Not saying it doesn't need bigger jets, but don't think that is the root cause of this problem/symptom. It used to rev past 5.5k when it had both pods and the 4-1 header. I've put the stock air box back on it, so if anything it should have helped the situation.

I will check the coils and test/swap the ignitor.
 
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hmmm....cleaning the spades on the coils helped - didn't cure it but if I let off the throttle some she'd clear her throat and would rev up to 7k (as high as i could go in 2nd on city streets)...
 
hmmm....cleaning the spades on the coils helped - didn't cure it but if I let off the throttle some she'd clear her throat and would rev up to 7k (as high as i could go in 2nd on city streets)...
Keep cleaning connections and while your at it go ahead and do the coil relay mod for good measure
 
Keep cleaning connections and while your at it go ahead and do the coil relay mod for good measure

I cleaned a bunch last fall (all fuses and connections, battery terminals, and grounds) but haven't got to all of them yet. Waiting a bit before I buy a Polaris R/R (mine's toast - charging at 16v at higher RPMs).

I've probably got a good 20-30 hours into this bike already...it's been a slow process. Want to get it running reliable enough so I can flip it ... and buy an 850G:D ... and start the whole process all over again.:eek:
 
I've probably got a good 20-30 hours into this bike already...it's been a slow process. Want to get it running reliable enough so I can flip it ... and buy an 850G:D ... and start the whole process all over again.:eek:

Then just buy a cheap used regulator that still works. Having fancy new one won't help you flip it any better.
 
Then just buy a cheap used regulator that still works. Having fancy new one won't help you flip it any better.

I realize it is just an L :p

But, I hear you - my concern with buying a used one is that it will be over charging too (hey! it came off a 'running' bike!). A new Polaris is about $70ish - used one will probably cost me $20 or so; and I probably have a 50/50 chance at best it will be regulating correctly. $50 is cheap piece of mind for me, and I know the problem has been fixed. Besides, it's kinda a pay-it-forward kind of thing.... most likely some new rider will end up buying it and at least I know they should have a trouble free riding season.
 
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Problem resolved. I put the pods back on and she runs great! The PO said he had rejetted for the pipes and pods, however, I had assumed he hadn't when I pulled out one of the main jets and it was a stock size. I bought a used airbox off of fleabay and installed it this spring.

What clued me in, was removing the air filter increased the usable RPM range to 7k, adding it back it in dropped to 5.5k.

Bike has been pretty much completely gone through at this point, so feel comfortable selling it.

Thanks for everyone's help.
 
I'm going through kinda the same thing with my 650. What jets are in your bike now? What did you figure out in the process of getting right?

Do you have an air box lid and filter you're going to be selling?

So basically it was running rich and breaking up?
 
I only checked the mains, and they were the exact same size (can't remember the number, as this was several months ago) as spec for stock. Link for stock spec's are listed on this site. I'm letting the box itself go with the bike - spent an hour getting the Polaris R/R to mount on the bottom; don't feel like undoing my work, and then having to fabricate a new method of mounting it.

I'll have a spare plenum, but you will need both parts.

Yes, in my case it was rich; however, I had been attacking the problem assuming it was lean, as I thought *for sure* it HAD to be lean, as it had a stock main jet.
 
Once you get the new Series regulator instlled, the valves adjusted and the cam timing confirmed, you will need to up the main jets a couple sizes and raise the jet needle a bit.

You didn't mention the make of 4-1, a good one like a Kerker will flow a lot more air, and thus require more fuel, some of the crappy ones don't flow much more at all.
 
Once you get the new Series regulator instlled, the valves adjusted and the cam timing confirmed, you will need to up the main jets a couple sizes and raise the jet needle a bit.

You didn't mention the make of 4-1, a good one like a Kerker will flow a lot more air, and thus require more fuel, some of the crappy ones don't flow much more at all.

Assuming this post was for me:

- New regulator installed: check
- valves adjusted: check
- carb sync'ed: check
- restrictive air box removed, pods put back on so carbs breath correctly with jetting did by PO to compensate for pods and pipes: check

She runs great now! I don't know the manufacture of the 4 into 1. Will need to readjust mixture screws, as these were set when I had the airbox on...possibly a carb sync again too.

It's amazing the throttle response on it....would swear it was FI
 
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