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PAULYBOY
Guest
Can anyone tell me any tips to changeout a broken clutch cable on this bike?
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Guest
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I've done it on my and it is really easy. If you have a Clymer, follow the manual. If not, just connect the ends up, put it together, and adjust it. The easiest way is try to set the lower adjust ment to where it old cable was and use that as your starting point to fine tune it. If you don't have a manual, PM me and I'll scan some pages for you and send them over.
You will need to remove the left side sprocket cover. Then, in the middle of that cover, you will see a small, round coverplate about 2" diameter with two hold down screws. Once the sprocket cover is off, remove the two hold down screws on the small cover. You will see a slotted 10 mm bolt with a lock/jamb nut. On the inside of the sprocket cover, you will find a pressed metal Y. The end of the clutch cable is fitted into the slot in the top of this piece. There is a tab in the middle of this piece where the cable end rests. That tab is bent to keep the cable from coming out of the slot. With a pair of needle nose pliers, bend the tab enough to allow the cable to come out of the slot. On top of the sprocket cover (where the cable enter the cover) you will see a rubber cover, a barrel and jamb nuts. Slide the rubber cover up to expose them. Undo the jamb nuts and thread/turn the barrel as far into the sprocket cover as you can to get slack. Then slide the cable end out of the retainer you bent the tab over on. Install new cable end and thread it all the way down also. Insert cable end and bend tab back in place to retain it. Next is the 10mm slotted bolt and its jamb nut. Its purpose is to adjust the end play between the cable holder and the end of the shift shaft. (the rod that runs through the tranny) Turn the slotted bolt clockwise lightly until you feel it bottom out. Back it out about 1/2 turn and lock it down with the jamb nut. Install the sprocket cover back on the bike and install the small round cover plate with its two hold down screws. Route the top end of the cable up to the handlebars. Avoid any sharp bends or crimps in the cable. When you get it to the handle bars,
the cable should be free enough that you can easily pull it back and forth slightly with your fingers. Remove the clutch lever from the handlebars.
Align the slots in the clutch lever barrel nut and knurled nut to allow removal of the old cable end. Install new cable end. Fit clutch lever back into place.
Turn out barrel adjuster on clutch lever until you get the slack taken out of the cable and the amount of free play you want. If you do not have enough adjustment at the clutch lever barrel, turn it halfway in and turn the adjuster barrel on top of the sprocket cover half way out. Then readjust the clutch lever barrel.
Earl
the cable should be free enough that you can easily pull it back and forth slightly with your fingers. Remove the clutch lever from the handlebars.
Align the slots in the clutch lever barrel nut and knurled nut to allow removal of the old cable end. Install new cable end. Fit clutch lever back into place.
Turn out barrel adjuster on clutch lever until you get the slack taken out of the cable and the amount of free play you want. If you do not have enough adjustment at the clutch lever barrel, turn it halfway in and turn the adjuster barrel on top of the sprocket cover half way out. Then readjust the clutch lever barrel.
Earl
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PAULYBOY
Guest
Thanks, guys. I think that should be clear. Unfortunately, I only have a Haynes manual, which is about as clear as mud. I'll try tomorrow after work, as it should be sunny (3rd day in a row, man, we're on a streak here).
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PAULYBOY
Guest
So, I spent about 2 hours outside today. Took the sprocket cober off, got the old cable out, mounted the new cable, no problems. Adjusted the clutch cable til it felt like the old one did before it broke, only nice and new. Put the bike into gear with out the engine running (not possible right now) and tried to actuate the clutch to get it back to neutral. Cable is nice and firm feelibg, no kinks or sharp bends. But it doesn,t feel like it is engaging. Any tips?
The feeling of an old cable just before it breaks isnt how it is supposed to feel. Assuming you set the end play on the shift shaft with a slight clearance, then (as a starting point) pull the clutch lever until you feel resistance. Turn out the barrel adjusters until the clutch lever is pulled forward almost to contact with the housing. That should give you about 1/32" free play before the lever starts to activate the clutch mechanism. Depending on the wear of your clutch linings, you may need to turn the adjustment barrel out a little farther. In any event, turn it out until pulling in the clutch lever allows you to shift between 1st-N-2nd without the bike running. Once at that point, you can run it on the centerstand, let it idle, pull in the clutch, shift into 1st and then slowly let the clutch out to see where the friction point is and the rear wheel begins to turn. Adjust so that holding in the clutch, bike idling in 1st gear, the rear wheel does not turn with enough force that you cannot stop it easily with your hand or boot, but you do want adjustment at a point that the rear wheel does try to rotate slightly when the bike is in gear and the lever is pulled in.
Earl
Earl
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