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[Advise Needed] Correct way to finish off Stator + Clutch Cover and Cylinder Head

  • Thread starter Thread starter joshes
  • Start date Start date
I soda blasted the engine while assembled. I didn't need or want to rebuild the motor, it was all cosmetics.
 
Hi Duaneage,

Many thanks for the insights. I am interesting with the baking soda method. Can you kindly explain in details as I am now persuading my local sand blaster to change the sand beads with the baking soda. So you do not need to blast it in the 'sandblast chamber' which means it is done outside.

What sort of protection (protector outfit) that I need to be concerned with?

Can you enlighten me with some information?
Thanks a lot buddy!
 
joshes said:
Hi Duaneage,

Many thanks for the insights. I am interesting with the baking soda method. Can you kindly explain in details as I am now persuading my local sand blaster to change the sand beads with the baking soda. So you do not need to blast it in the 'sandblast chamber' which means it is done outside.

What sort of protection (protector outfit) that I need to be concerned with?

Can you enlighten me with some information?
Thanks a lot buddy!
Click to expand...

Sure.

Aramex is an international company that sells blasting grade baking soda They offer two formula here,120/180 grit and a rougher 80/120. I used the 120/180 stuff.You could use the baking soda sold for cooking but it's not consistent like blasting grade.

The air has to go through a dryer. The dryer removes moisture from the air that can cause clumps to form and clog the sprayer. I started with about 15 pounds of baking soda to the tank and ran 80 pounds of air on it. The tank I have pressurizes the media (baking soda) and pushes it down where another stream of air goes past and sends it to the nozzle. You adjust for a usable stream and keep adjusting the pressures as the media goes down. An experienced sandblaster should know how to do this.

Test the blast on the bottom of the engine first to get a feel for the pressure required. I did clean off much of the muck and grease to make it easier. The baking soda will soak into the grease and you will be able to take it off with a fingernail.

Protective gear is similar to any blasting setup, Gloves, long sleeves and a hood. If done outside with a breeze you probably don't need a respirator, baking soda is harmless stuff, but heavy clouds should be avoided. Again, grass or plants shouldn't be bathed in the stuff. Cleanup is a compressed air nozzle, hose and brush. The Baking soda on the ground can be simply washed away, no need to recycle it.

Baking soda will not remove rust from metal but it does a great job removing paint and that white corrosion from aluminum while leaving a neutral finish which can be further polished. This is a good first step towards the polishing process. It will find it's way into things so plug off holes really well. Leave the plugs in and cork off the ports. But it dissolves in oil or water so it's not a big deal if it makes it into the engine.

Baking soda works by hitting the engine at high speed were the crystals shatter and remove the contaminants. All other media is hard and does not break down. This is the only environmentally friendly way to blast that does not require respirators and a big cleanup project, although respirators are always a good idea and you will have to hose down the driveway.
 
Before blasting an assembled engine you need to plug all the openings where the media can get inside. Soda is most likely less of a problem but I'd be concern anyway if any of the grit got inside my engine.

Regarding polishing the engine covers, the factory finish is pretty close to 600 grit. Those guys recommending anything higher are going for a mirror finish, not the factory look which is actually a "brushed" finish.

These engine covers were polished with 600 and then aluminum polish.:)

Picture178.jpg


Picture063.jpg
 
The final swipe on the covers leaves a fine series of lines in a straight line. I got the same look by using 000 steel wool. I would describe the results as a satin finish. For clear coat I de-greased the part with lacquer thinner, dry and immediately painted with clear engine paint. I gave another coat 10 minutes later. This should hold up for a few years. The leading edge of the engine in the breeze takes hits from dirt so it may develop pits and have to be redone eventually. After about 4 years and 14,000 miles my stator cover needs another polish job because of debris hitting the cover.

I used rubber balls on the ports, ran bolts into any hole I saw, and put rubber hose on the PCV port on top of the cam cover. This kept all the soda out of the engine.
 
joshes said:
Got it!

Going back on the vapour blasting - have you heard of bead blasting. Any comments on this. The only reason for asking is that there is a limited 'blasting' options in where I live. So, just to make sure i choose the right method.

Thanks a lot mate!
Click to expand...
If you bead blast aluminum you will get a dull finish that will need to be sanded with progressily finer paper, then polished in order to get a shine. The same is true for sandblasting except it leaves a coarser finish on aluminum than does bead blasting.

Bead blasting will work fine on non-polished surfaces such as your block. You should have the motor disassembled for this to be properly done.
 
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