Another brake thread

[Kcwiro]

... getting the bike ready for its ride to Reno...so the guys I riding down with do not have to assist me or tell my relatives why I got killed... I am trying to tackle my spongy front break lever.

I have read things from my calipers got crud in them and I need to rebuild them with new seals and such, to my break lines (old) are swelling when pressure is applied and I am therefore not able to get proper pressure, I have replaced the lower parts of my master cylinder when i first got the bike and the improvement was not much better. Reservoir is looking ratty and brown so I looking to replace that when I do this brake project. I have looked at putting after market controls on with different master cylinder but i am on the fence.

Looking at this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRON...rcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_19716wt_1165

Looks solid but curious what everyone thinks or experienced with these.

Symptoms of problem:

Front break travel is about 1.5" I'd figure before it stops and breaks are engaged, if I pump it in a crunch I get stiffer response but still not enough grab to lock the front tire. Though honestly I do not want to do that ever if I can help it ... done the rear and it was a white knuckle experience.

I am replacing my front fork springs this winter. Question could the sag from the worn ones is affecting my breaking performance?...I do not think this is possible for what I am seeing but best ask the gate keepers of knowledge their .02

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I have tried bleeding repeatedly but no improvement was seen, the shop did it once for me with their power bleeder but from what I have read those do not work as well with our bikes. I know about the tee splitter sometimes having air get trapped right there in it. How would one bleed to eliminate that getting air trapped?

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For steel lines if I go that route I looking at the paragon performance kits. They look a little pricey but I honestly do not think I have the ability to make my own kit as well. Brakes are something I do not want to take chances on...

I am open to suggestions folks fire away

 

[Nessism]

That master has a 14 mm piston, which is the size Suzuki used on the single disc bikes. Because of the piston size the brake lever will spongy, which I think you are trying to avoid.

 

[Kcwiro]

That master has a 14 mm piston, which is the size Suzuki used on the single disc bikes. Because of the piston size the brake lever will spongy, which I think you are trying to avoid.

That would be correct....spongy = bad I'll have to look around to find the one that is compatible though it seems like I might just end up buying a replacement reservoir and changing the lines.

Just leaves me to decide if I want to do away with he tee fitting on the front brakes or keep it. Paragons kit accounts for the tee fitting so that might be dictated for me already...honestly I am most concerned with my front brakes, my rear ones are fine right now so perhaps I can save a few bucks right now and replace the rear ones later. I do not see brake lines for my bike on dennis kirk...has other things but no brake lines...

 

[almarconi]

This thread describes brake bleeding technique

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=143390&highlight=bleeding

If you haven't already done it, clean/ rebuild your master cylinder and brake calipers.

Replace the old lines with braided stainless. If you don't want to make your own (search for method used by nessism), Z1 sells lines that are easy to assemble and reasonably priced.

The brake system is not a place you want to pinch pennies.

 

[spyug]

This thread describes brake bleeding technique

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...light=bleeding

If you haven't already done it, clean/ rebuild your master cylinder and brake calipers.

Replace the old lines with braided stainless. If you don't want to make your own (search for method used by nessism), Z1 sells lines that are easy to assemble and reasonably priced.

The brake system is not a place you want to pinch pennies.

Could not have said that better myself. Since the front brakes do most if not all of the work in hauling you down you need them to be tip top. In my opinion, if you do nothing else, clean all the components from top to bottom and put in fresh fluid.

For improving feel and getting rid of squishyness the only solution is kevlar lined SS lines. A bit pricey but once you have them you will never ride with rubber again.

Just remember, your life depends on that system so for goodness sake do it right.

Ride safe,
Spyug

 

[Nessism]

Suzuki calls for rubber brake line replacement every 2 years, which obviously is excessive, but people still running their old rubber lines are about 25 years past due.

 

[Kcwiro]

I have not rebuilt the calipers but Master cylinder was cleaned out very well when I did that it sounds unavoidable so I will be figuring out what I need to do for the rebuild of them. Sounds like full disassembly clean and paint while I at it.

With Z1's brake line lengths ... Is there a reference to for the brake lines length? Clymer does not list the lengths that I can find other than just getting measurements off the cable once I remove them from the bike. T-fitting or dual banjo at the MC ... is the next question.. will need to find my thread size too... grr..

 

[doctorgonzo]

If you want to go REALLY crazy, you can strip the calipers to bare aluminum, and clearcoat with a wheel grade clearcoat. You can see mine (barely) in this pic.

 

[doctorgonzo]

I have not rebuilt the calipers but Master cylinder was cleaned out very well when I did that it sounds unavoidable so I will be figuring out what I need to do for the rebuild of them. Sounds like full disassembly clean and paint while I at it.

With Z1's brake line lengths ... Is there a reference to for the brake lines length? Clymer does not list the lengths that I can find other than just getting measurements off the cable once I remove them from the bike. T-fitting or dual banjo at the MC ... is the next question.. will need to find my thread size too... grr..

HEL sells kits that are the right length and right fittings by model. May be a little more expensive than Z1.

 

[Larry D]

Here's the SS brakeline thread.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=114521

 

[Nessism]

HEL sells kits that are the right length and right fittings by model. May be a little more expensive than Z1.

HEL is more money than Z1/Goodrich which is more money than Earl's.

The build your own Earl's lines use a very secure bolt-on attachment method with olive. You can customize the lengths yourself to accommodate for lower than stock bars and according to the owner of AN Plumbing, the bolt-on ends are more secure than crimp on hose ends. http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php

 

[Big T]

Scott,

I wouldn't spend the money on a new M/C until you correct the brake lines and calipers

I HIGHLY recommend doing Salty Monk's Kawasaki Twinpot Upgrade. Check list:

1. (2) large front discs from single disc GSes (CBR 600 rotors can be used) maybe $50
2. One pair circa 1990 Ninja 600 front calipers (got mine with hoses off Ebay for about $40)
3. SM's caliper bracket - my aluminum ones were $70, he'll be doing steel ones this year

I lucked out and my Ninja Calipers had good hoses, seals and pads. So I just cleaned them up and bolted everything on.

So, for under $150 I tripled my braking power. It's like going from a 1965 Falcon with drum brakes to a Toyota Supra.

 

[Big T]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1988...9870589QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Yours for $27, includes the M/C and hoses

 

[Kcwiro]

Nice some questions...

Nice some questions...

Scott,

I wouldn't spend the money on a new M/C until you correct the brake lines and calipers

I HIGHLY recommend doing Salty Monk's Kawasaki Twinpot Upgrade. Check list:

1. (2) large front discs from single disc GSes (CBR 600 rotors can be used) maybe $50
2. One pair circa 1990 Ninja 600 front calipers (got mine with hoses off Ebay for about $40)
3. SM's caliper bracket - my aluminum ones were $70, he'll be doing steel ones this year

I lucked out and my Ninja Calipers had good hoses, seals and pads. So I just cleaned them up and bolted everything on.

So, for under $150 I tripled my braking power. It's like going from a 1965 Falcon with drum brakes to a Toyota Supra.

I like the sound of that improvement... I will bid at the wire on those so I can keep any other people from bumping it up. Hopefully no one else is looking for those. I can do all the prep before I even bolt those on. SM is going to be making steel brackets? you paid $50 for a pair of rotors? ... not bad as my front ones are chewed up pretty bad

Mforbes is going to give me a hand on the other maint. in a few weeks. I will use what I have and make the switch of those a month later.

Checked out the Thread link for the SS Lines.. definitely interesting. Hopefully that ebay unit is not in too bad a shape. Lower parts of my MC was rebuilt btw ... marginal improvement was gained. That thread is a great reference for sure.

 

[Kcwiro]

Bidding Fail...!

Bidding Fail...!

A carefully placed User error kept me from bidding...computer logged me out it seems and of course did not to tell me until it was too late. I emailed the guy to see as there were no bids if he would just drop me them for a side deal... will see...

...honestly first time this has burned me..:twistedevil:

 

[Big T]

A carefully placed User error kept me from bidding...computer logged me out it seems and of course did not to tell me until it was too late. I emailed the guy to see as there were no bids if he would just drop me them for a side deal... will see...

...honestly first time this has burned me..:twistedevil:

No bids = little demand = easy to get

Good luck with the rotors