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Ate smarties, didn't help: '86 1150 No crank, no cluster lights, stuck connectors

  • Thread starter Thread starter zachdexter
  • Start date Start date
Z

zachdexter

Guest
Earlier this week, while I had my seats off and was playing with my tail light issue, I lost all signs of electric at and past my ignition switch.

Dummy me (and because my battery hasn't gotten a good charge) I though "Well, I'll just pop it down my really steep driveway like I have been for the last 2 weeks". Half way down the really, really steep driveway, I thought, "If my display isn't lighting up at all, I have a bigger problem than a bad battery." I stopped the bike there. I hooked the battery up to a car batter to double check, but still no light up at the dash. In an effort to get it back up the driveway (rain was inbound and I was 15 minutes late to class), I swapped out my 15 amp main fuse with a 10 amp to match the starter circuit 10A fuse. I jumped the main fuse to the starter fuse (on the same side to ensure I hit at least one of the fuses), and I got lights at my dash and my gear shift indicator again. I hit my start button, was in 2nd and didn't realize it, and the bike rolled right off the stand and *kerplunk*, I picked her back up.

Got ready to start again and didn't have enough juice on my battery to move the starter, so I hooked up my car battery again to jump it (not a running car), and got a *POP*, like a 22 gun shot. At that point, I grabbed a friend and we pushed her back up the steep, steep driveway.

Today I did more troubleshooting. I popped off the back of the ignition switch and I have my battery voltage at the switch. Upon turning the switch, my meter drops to reading 0. I popped out all fuses but the main fuse, and I have my battery voltage show up again. Inserting any other fuse (starting circuit fuse, signal fuse, etc) and I start to short out again.

Sorry about the length of the story. My questions are this: 1.)Could I have fried a component by jumping my main fuse to my starter fuse? Also, I know that I have to go through and clean my electrical connections. Today, wiggling the connector in my headlight, between my main fuse and my ignition switch, changed my voltage reading between about 6 volts and 10 volts at the switch. 2.) The green and blue sealed connectors inside the headlight are STUCK! I cannot get them apart to clean/fix the contacts inside. Can these come apart, or do they need to get cut out?
 
zachdexter said:
connectors inside the headlight are STUCK! I cannot get them apart to clean/fix the contacts inside. Can these come apart, or do they need to get cut out?
Click to expand...
Sounds like you may need several new connectors. At least that has been established and is a good starting point. Dont even push the start button unless you have 12 vdc at the coils. If you have a weak battery your headlight will suck up 1/2 that and the voltage at the coils wont be enough to start the bike.
 
I'll start testing more at the coils. When troubleshooting, I always unplug the headlight to keep it from playing with the voltage I need to trouble shoot.
 
Solution: I lost the ground coming off the ignition switch. Today I found it.

I replaced the factory 4-wire connector between the harness and the ignition switch. The inside was melted against the positive ignition wire- that's why the connector was stuck together. Holey corrosion. I replaced the connector with spade connectors and heat shrink. I'm running strong.

I will now commence on replacing more connectors. Many of them have some nasty corrosion. This is all detailed on basscliff's 'Newbies post'. You guys sure know what you're talking about!

Thanks
 
I picked up a new agm battery, too. Have 12 volts is pretty cool :p
 
Nice job on finding the problem. I too had one of those, "gosh, nothing works" moments and thankfully I remembered the advice here about how the electrical connectors get corroded over time. Started cleaning them out and whammo, stuff works again!
 
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