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Biggest Bang For Your Buck. 1980 GS1100

  • Thread starter Thread starter joe bio
  • Start date Start date
J

joe bio

Guest
I own a 1980 GS 1100,
Individual K&N POD Filters.
4 Into one Vance and Hines Pipe.
Carbs have been rejetted.
Pistons have new rings.
Cams degreed.

I was wondering what next low cost performance upgrade will give me the biggest boost without sacrificing reliability.

Thanks Joe
 
RS Flatslides, a simple bolt on item that really wakes a bike up.
 
Sort of depends what you are shooting for with the bike, but I'll offer my two cents. The cheap, easy, and dead bang reliable way to improve acceleration is to re-gear with a new chain and sprockets. You want more acceleration go with a smaller front or larger rear sprocket. Do the inverse for slower acceleration, better mileage, and higher top speed. Check out this websight for assistance selecting gear ratios: http://www.gearingcommander.com/

Past that, spending a little time and money on a dyno or with someone who can really tune the bike. After that stuff you get into bigger ticket items like drop in cams, pistons, head work, and bigger carbs.
 
Billy Ricks said:
RS Flatslides, a simple bolt on item that really wakes a bike up.
Click to expand...

If you can get a set of nice RS 36's those will wake the bike up. The Sling shot BST36SS will help although not the same as the acclerater pumped RS. Your looking at $400-$700 for good used to new on the RS.

linky for slingshot carbs
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=130618&highlight=low+cost

Of course the real answer is to decide in the beginning how much hp you want and one of the best places to start is in the head. This thread will give you and idea of how to reliably get 135-145 hp at the rear wheel.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=137631&highlight=low+cost

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=146105&highlight=low+cost

The cheap stuff thought is:

$1 Quick turn throttle mod

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1235704&postcount=2

Hp coils nd coil relay mods

Pindle petcock because you will flow too much to exceed the stock one.

How are your cams degreed?
What mains are you running? 34mm stock?
I assume you are just looking to improve acceleration from the street. Increase torque will come from an 1166 kit.

Gearing will help to if you move from 630 to 530 chains.
 
Last edited:
A set of '83 1100 cams degreed in to spec. A set of 36mm 1150 carbs. .340" web cams. Depends on what you want to spend.
 
With a pre 83 engine that doesn't have a welded crank, I would say to stick to carbs, pipe & gearing. Even this can cause the crank to twist. Heck, you can twist an unwelded crank with a bone stock engine! The next thing is ignition. After that you need to do hard parts to strengthen the engine. Heavy duty clutch hub, get the crank welded, undercut the trans, 750 oil pump gears. All of the last things I listed will keep the engine internals, INTERNALS! Call me at 714-356-7845 if you ever want help. I have literally TONS of 1100/1150 engine parts & have been building & racing them for more than 30 years. Ray.
 
How low (10,11,12,13) can I go when changing the front sprocket and
keeping the stock chain ?

Thanks Joe
 
joe bio said:
How low (10,11,12,13) can I go when changing the front sprocket and
keeping the stock chain ?

Thanks Joe
Click to expand...
One or two teeth on the front is the most I would go. The smaller the sprocket the harder it is for the chain to get around the sprocket. And if you go too small the engine will rev like crazy on the highway.
 
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