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bike revs real high during idle + clutch cover questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter gasisontheright
  • Start date Start date
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gasisontheright

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Once my bike warms up for a bit, whenever I pull the clutch in, it will idle at like 3k. Why is it doing it and what can I do to correct it? Also, I went to change my clutch cable, but couldn't get the side case that covers it off. The phillips screws wouldn't budge, and I didn't push it too hard because I didn't want stripped screws? Whats the best approach? Lots of WD40 then an impact?
 
For the idle problem, it sounds like you may have a leak in you intake. Check your carb boots. As for the screws, as weird as this sounds, try grabbing them with a pair of channel-locks to get them started. When I've run into that problem, that was my solution.
 
The high idle is a classic intake leak symptom.
Check the manifold clamps first for tightness. If that doesn't help, you need to inspect the manifolds for cracks/hardness, and replace the manifold o-rings if yours has them.
I always use a good fitting bit in my impact wrench to remove the Phillips. Then I chuck 'em and buy Allens.
 
Another bit of O-ring advice that Mr. Krause gave me...put some hi-temp grease on the new O-rings to help them last. To be quite honest, I'd plan on changing them. Its a cheap and pretty easy job. It also makes a big difference.
 
are you meaning between the intake manifold and carb, or between the carb and airbox?
 
Between the intake boots and the head. Hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, but you do know about the idle adjust screw?

Regarding the clutch cover screws, I agree that channellocks (or small vice-grips) will work, but to me, that would be a last resort. Impact would definitely be the preferable way to go. What I would try though, is a titanium or slotted #3 (if I remember right) phillips, that fits the slots perfectly. In a 1/4 drive socket handle, you can focus one hand completely on applying pressure, and the other hand can generate adequate torque. Oh... and it really helps if you put some valve-grinding compound on the screw driver bit, and even plain old dirt helps improve the friction between the bit and the screw. For what it's worth.
 
I got the clutch cover off with a impact screwdriver so the clutch cable has been done now. I haven't messed with the leak any yet, but could it possibly also cause a hesitation? Whenever I give it a little throttle accelerating, usually in 1st and 2nd gear it hesitates a bit. I'm ordering new brake pads and some pod air filters tonite, so when I put the air filters on I'm going to check for the leak.
 
Changing the O rings cured a lot of ills for me. You could also be talking about dirty carbs.
 
take a can of starter fluid, and spray a little where the carb boot meets the motor (do this whilst its running) if the motor revs, then you have an intake leak, a cheap and dirty fix is to use a little black RV sealant under the boots...like the others said, sounds like classic leak symptoms.
 
gasisontheright said:
I got the clutch cover off with a impact screwdriver so the clutch cable has been done now. I haven't messed with the leak any yet, but could it possibly also cause a hesitation? Whenever I give it a little throttle accelerating, usually in 1st and 2nd gear it hesitates a bit. I'm ordering new brake pads and some pod air filters tonite, so when I put the air filters on I'm going to check for the leak.
Click to expand...
Higher idle and hesitation are both classic symptoms of an intake leak.
 
where can I order the parts for it? I guess I'll order the O-rings and the brakepads I need from the same place. 8)
 
very simalar problem here

very simalar problem here

my 81 gs 650g idles at 3k when hot but normaly when cool I can pull the plug wire for the far left hole and it goes back to normal and I almost have to do this in town I have sprayed every thing from wd 40 with propane propelent to ether around the boot with no effect I think theres somthing weird with that carb

HELP
 
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