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Bike starts with carb cleaner but not with gas?

  • Thread starter Thread starter stp1stp
  • Start date Start date
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stp1stp

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I just bought 4 new carb rebuild kits. Put the new parts in the clean carbs and replaced the fuel petcock with a new one. BIke still wont turn over by itself. The only way I could get it to start is by taking the air filter out and sparying a little carb cleaner into the port hole. Even then it will only run for a few seconds. The carbs bowls are primed. I just can't figure it out. Any sugestions?
 
A few things, I don't know if it will help.

When you start the bike, make sure you don't use any throttle when the choke is on. Choke only to start.
Is the choke hooked up?
Floats adjusted correctly?
Vacuum line hooked up right?

After you try starting it, pull a plug or two and see they are wet from gas. You may have weak spark. Battery needs to be in good shape and good voltage to the coils.
 
The floats might not be adjusted correctly. The old float needle had a cage around it to keep it from falling out, the new ones have a spring load post and the little wire cage will not fit around it. This could be a problem but will that just cause it to drown the spark plugs? I do have the take attach to a 6 foot vacuum and gas line so I can have the tank sitting on a shelf while I make adjustments. Maybe the vacuum line is too long? I attach a small vacuum line and suck it by mouth into it started to flow out of number 4drain plug hole. So I know that the bowls have gas. I'll go check out the plugs in a minute to see if they get wet.
 
If you changed your float needle and seat you neeed to adjust your float heigth.
 
Where can I get part # 09913-14511 (fuel level gauge) or is there a different way to see if you need to adjust the float?
 
I used a ruler with mm. Just make sure both sides measure the same.
 
stp1stp said:
I just bought 4 new carb rebuild kits. Put the new parts in the clean carbs and replaced the fuel petcock with a new one. BIke still wont turn over by itself. The only way I could get it to start is by taking the air filter out and sparying a little carb cleaner into the port hole. Even then it will only run for a few seconds. The carbs bowls are primed. I just can't figure it out. Any sugestions?
Click to expand...

Have you got fresh fuel in the tank. If the bike has sat for months/years without use, the fuel's octane level will have dropped significiently making it impossible to start/run.
Poor spark doesn't sound like an issue.
 
stp1stp said:
The floats might not be adjusted correctly. The old float needle had a cage around it to keep it from falling out, the new ones have a spring load post and the little wire cage will not fit around it. This could be a problem but will that just cause it to drown the spark plugs? I do have the take attach to a 6 foot vacuum and gas line so I can have the tank sitting on a shelf while I make adjustments. Maybe the vacuum line is too long? I attach a small vacuum line and suck it by mouth into it started to flow out of number 4drain plug hole. So I know that the bowls have gas. I'll go check out the plugs in a minute to see if they get wet.
Click to expand...
What little wire cage are you talking about?there is a screen that is connected to the needle valve seat that goes in the carb but i have never hear of a cage around the float needle to keep it from falling out.What carbs are these???Are you sure you dont have the needle valve seat upside down?
 
I'm very sure it's on right. Here a pic of the old one wih the cage.


Good news and bad new.

Good News.......The bike started right up. I don't know why it was giving me hell yesterday but today started with no problems.

Bad News........I think the oil passages the the head are clogged. I let the bike get hot then a loud screeching sound and dies. I think it is coming from the head but I'm not sure and I don't want to start it again. I knew putting that gasket selant was going to be bad news. I never worked on a motorcycle engine before and when I changed the gaskets I wasn't thinking clearly. Now I have a lot of work ahead of me.

Does that sould like no oil is getting to the head to everybody else? Is it gasket crap in the lines?

On top of everything else #2 isn't getting hot. Just a little warm and probably from #1 and #3.
 
Yep, that loud screeching sound is exactly what just happened to me, and it was sealant that did it.
 
Did you clean it out? Was it easy? I'm sure it requires taking the crank case apart but I not even sure where the oil passages are at but I'm sure my Clymer's manual will let me know.
 
Your cam "might" be toast. Your cam cap "might" be toast. Your head "might be" toast.
You won't know until you open it up.
What a bummer. A hard lesson learned.:cry:
 
Will it be very noticable if any of those part are "toast"? Or is it a measuring thing because i did take the cam cover off the first time this happen before winter and there was no visible damage, which that doesn't mean that there isn't damage hiding. I know that, but I didn't see anything.
 
If it's "toast", you will most likely see your cam breaings a dark blue/gray in color, possibly worn down through the surface material and into the backer material, the caps may show the same wear patterns. Cam journals may have the bearing material "burnt" into them and the lobes will be almost black, with the exception of the very tips of the lobes. I sure hope you see none of these signs...I've "burnt" an engine or two over the years. Ps. there is a smell of BURNT to go along with the colors. :(
 
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