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Bike won't start, can't get clutch adjusted

  • Thread starter Thread starter cj7jeep81
  • Start date Start date
tkent02 said:
Will it ever get warm enough to idle without the choke?
Click to expand...

it did when I bought it, and before I started tearing stuff apart :) previous owner did state that it was really cold natured, and took a long time to warm up to where he could take it off choke. the valves were really tight when I opened it up, so I'd imagine that had some to do with it, and guessing when he had the carbs rebuilt, they didn't get it all out.

also, it was in the low 30's last night, so not exactly warm. when it died (from killing the choke too soon), I just shut it off and left it. Figured it wasn't going to really do it any good to start it back up and let it run for 10 or 15 minutes. And I didn't feel like standing out in the cold for longer than that just to listen to it.

my goal is to just be able to ride it this season, then probably pull the carbs and fully clean/rebuild next winter.
 
cj7jeep81 said:
didn't check to see if all the pipes were warm, but will next time I run it (hopefully the clutch will be working and I can actually ride it). I did check both exhausts, and both were putting out about equal pressure, so pretty sure all cylinders were firing.
Click to expand...

They'll still pump air, even if they're not firing. ICEs are basically air pumps with a tiny bit of added fuel. You need to feel the pipes near the head. Be forewarned that they will get HOT HOT HOT after just a little while of running. Best to start early and get a feel before they get 3rd-degree-burns hot. Lick the fingers and give 'em a smack, or mist with a light spray of water once they get really hot.
 
tkent02 said:
Do the carbs first, let it run properly all summer.
It's not that hard.
Click to expand...

I'll think about it. Its supposed to warm up this week (30's today, 50's tomorrow, so probably more tornadoes), so maybe one night or this weekend I'll start it up again and see how it idles and go from there.

mike, next time I start it, I'll check to see if all 4 pipes get hot.

edit: one other question. I know these are air cooled, so do I need to be worried about it overheating from just running without moving? Or would that only be a concern when it actually gets warmer out?
 
It's recommended to put a fan blowing on them if you're going to run it stationary for more than 5 minutes or so.
 
mike_of_bbg said:
They'll still pump air, even if they're not firing. ICEs are basically air pumps with a tiny bit of added fuel. You need to feel the pipes near the head. Be forewarned that they will get HOT HOT HOT after just a little while of running. Best to start early and get a feel before they get 3rd-degree-burns hot. Lick the fingers and give 'em a smack, or mist with a light spray of water once they get really hot.
Click to expand...

checked it tonight. #1, #3, and #4 got hot, #2 did not. Pulled all 4 plugs, and tested them. got spark from all but #2. Only ran for a few minutes, and did not run smoothly at all, and I couldn't get it to idle. When I took the choke down, it would die. So now I've got all the plugs soaking in white vinegar, and put a twistie tie around the #2 plug so I can identify it tomorrow to test it. Will also double check the gap before I put them back in.
 
If the plug is carbon-fouled the vinegar soak may help. Also try swapping plugs to make sure it's not the plug. If it isn't, un-screw the plug cap and check the resistance across it. Stock plug caps run ~10k ohms, the usual NGK replacement runs about 5k ohms. Trim about 1/4" of wire before screwing the cap back on.
 
mike_of_bbg said:
If the plug is carbon-fouled the vinegar soak may help. Also try swapping plugs to make sure it's not the plug. If it isn't, un-screw the plug cap and check the resistance across it. Stock plug caps run ~10k ohms, the usual NGK replacement runs about 5k ohms. Trim about 1/4" of wire before screwing the cap back on.
Click to expand...

yeah, for some reason I didn't try a known good plug on that wire. But I don't think my luck is quite that bad that I'd have one bad spark plug and one bad cap/wire, and they both be on the same cylinder. But, I'll find out tonight.
 
Got 4 new plugs today, and verified that I was getting spark from the #2 wire before putting them all in. Bike fired up on the second try (had it at full choke at first, went to half on the second). Within a couple of minutes, I was able to completely take it off choke. Once it was idling nice, I took it through all the gears. Took a bit, but after a while, engaging the clutch lever would take it out of gear. So it seems like it just needed to be worked loose.

After it had been running a while, I checked all 4 pipes and they were all hot. I did notice that #4 took a lot longer to get warm, but was hot at the end. I'm thinking I didn't torque the spark plugs down enough, as with the new gaskets/washers there was a lot more give to them. I'll torque them down next time I'm out there.

Now to just bleed the front brakes (I replaced the lines), and it will finally be ready for a test ride. Thanks everyone for all your help!
 
Just took the bike for a short ride, and the clutch still isn't adjust right apparently. I was riding, and if I got on the throttle, the rpm's would shoot up, but the bike would not speed up. Seems like the clutch is still partly engaged, and its slipping. Any ideas?
 
Could be it's adjusted wrong, could be your clutch springs are thirty years old.
Both easy to fix. Let it slip enough you will need new plates, not so cheep and easy to fix.
 
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