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Bike won't start

  • Thread starter Thread starter devauxr
  • Start date Start date
D

devauxr

Guest
Hello everybody, I have a 1980 gs850g. I've recently rebuilt the carbs, the engine, and put a new petcock on it, also i put on cone filters. Now the bike won't start unless i put my hands over the carburetor intakes for a second and then it'll just run for a couple of seconds (unless i keep doing it). Anyone have any ideas? Also it's like 20 something degrees out all the time. Could it just be getting too much air? is there anything i could check? Any help would be much appreciated.
 
devauxr said:
Hello everybody, I have a 1980 gs850g. I've recently rebuilt the carbs, the engine, and put a new petcock on it, also i put on cone filters. Now the bike won't start unless i put my hands over the carburetor intakes for a second and then it'll just run for a couple of seconds (unless i keep doing it). Anyone have any ideas? Also it's like 20 something degrees out all the time. Could it just be getting too much air? is there anything i could check? Any help would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...

Try with the airbox on.
The CV 850s are notorious for not working well without the airbox, unless rejetted properly for the pods.
 
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You cannot just ditch the airbox, slap on some pods and expect these bikes to run. They are very specific on the air/fuel mixture.

Search rejetting, I bet there are over 1,000 posts about it....:)
 
if you really want to keep the cone filters (and if the exhaust is still 4-2)you can try inserting some foam on the inside of the filters to give the air more resistance

but as noted, ideally, you want to re-jet and use good quality pods if you want good results
low end torque is going to suffer, though
 
Ah, I know this one.....

Ah, I know this one.....

I too have a 1980 GS850 with pod filters. The problem is indeed lack of vacuum. I sprang for the stage 3 dynojet kit which includes little inserts for the air bleed passages in the carb throat. These compensate for the lack of vacuum caused by the airbox. If you refer to the install sheet here: http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3306.pdf they call them 'main air correctors' I know $125 is a chunk of change, but if you want to eliminate the airbox it's the only realistic option.
I run Uni pod filters with a MAC 4-1 and as a result shaved almost 30 lbs off the old girl. She now dynos at a healthy 94.9 hp at the rear wheel. Handling is much improved with the weight loss but I do miss the look of the airbox. I chose to eliminate it because it was in need of a full set of rubber bits and it was cheaper just to buy the jet kit.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the info. I knew i was going to have to rejet i didn't know it would be so bad it wouldn't run, but i did have a sneaking suspicion, so the airbox it is until i can do the pods right! You guys are awesome, and thanks again.
 
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