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blackened aluminum

  • Thread starter Thread starter loud et
  • Start date Start date
L

loud et

Guest
I was just reading an old thread about simple green and lemon juice turning aluminum black/grey.
So my situation is that I have the head off my 16valve 1100e and I removed the valves to degrease , remove the carbon buildup and strip and repaint the head.
I used the "BIG ORANGE" like I often do to break down the oil and grime and little brushes to get the nooks and crannies, then I used a "used but not dead" partial gallon of berrymans to further soak and baste the head for a day to clean it further. It came out looking good, but I wanted one more good dip to clean it a bit more so I used some Krud Kutter which is like a house wash or gp cleaner and used a heavy amount in the utility tub with scalding hot water. It soaked for a few hours and the inside of cam/valve area and the previously shiny gasket surface are now dark dark grey. The cam journals which were pristine are now dark grey. Basically everything under the valve cover that was bright and clean is that nasty stained color.
Is this going to hury my cams/journals when they go back in?
Is there a way to remove that staining?
 
Hi babes. I expect.its jyst a surface dusting ov blackness...
It will probably get burnt off when the head gets roasting hot next time the bike runs....
Im pretty sure it'll be ok.
you could spray the rest.ov the bike Matt Black to match the insides....!
good.luck.
Xxx
 
Krud Kutter, according to MSDS data, is a weak solution of phosporic acid AKA orthophosphoric acid.

Phosphoric acid is often used as a rust remover, where it dissolves the oxidized particles, etches the surface, and leaves behind a black coloured surface, which is often advertised as suitable as a base for painting.

In its different concentrations/strengths it is used in some gas tank cleaners and it is the main chemical ingredient in CLR.




Borrowed from the CLR manufacturer site:


What will CLR do to copper or aluminum?

CLR will take the finish off of aluminum and copper.







What surfaces should I not use CLR on?

DO not use CLR on natural stone or marble, terrazzo, colored grout, painted or metallic glazed surfaces, plastic laminates, Formica, aluminum, steam irons, leaded crystal, refinished tubs or any damaged or cracked surface. CLR may etch older sinks, tubs and tiles. CLR is corrosive. Avoid contact with wood, clothing, wallpaper and carpeting. Some laminated surfaces (counter tops) are coated with a synthetic surface which may be affected by rust removers; clean spills immediately.



Obviously, there has been some chemical exchange taking place, as the polished finish has been compromised.

It is also possible that some etching of the surfaces has occurred, but the extent of it is unknown.
 
Experimenting with different cleaning products as many try and do on here, can just end up being disastrous, aside from Berrymans, if I can't clean it with good dishwashing liquid and elbow grease, it gets left alone or painted.
Not saying you did any harm Adam, but, use some good ole fashoned water and soap to clean it one more time to eliminate any residue and nuetralize any chemical reaction that might be taking place, soft cloth and air psi to dry.
 
Roger that. JUst gave her a bath....I wont be making that mistake again.
Thanks for the comments, I suppose I will just rebuild her and have "these engines are bulletproof" be my mantra ...lol
 
You could try soda blasting it, but vapor blasting would be best if cloeaning doesn't work
 
BigD_83 said:
Vapor blasting is a new one on me, so I Googled it and came up with this thread on another forum, chock full of images:

http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66416
Click to expand...
What a great technique. Literally like new parts. Very impressive.
The only thing I am worried about is the cam journals in the head. Unless I hear otherwise , I am just gonna rebuild the thing. The exterior of the head is fine for painting, the only areas that darkened are where there was "virgin" shiny machined aluminum.
Regardless I am gonna google the vapor blast for a service in my area. Depending on cost that could be a timesaver for all aluminum bits. Great thread, thanks.
 
Oh wow. I want my whole bike vapour blasted. That finish is exactly what I want. Beautiful. Wow.
 
It says in the article he's using glass bead blasting. Is that a type of vapour blasting?
 
I spoke with Jeff at http://www.vaporblasting.biz/How_to_Order_Vaporblasting.html today, July 15th 2012.

He was going to the shop do about 4 hours of work on a customers order, so he is in business. I will be shipping my engine parts to Jeff to vapor blast, perhaps he is willing to take some before and after pictures for us to show the work done on my engine parts.

Happy to have someone in the USA do this for us.
 
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