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bleeding brakes and No pumping !!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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you will need a long clear hose ( fish tank hose is good so you can see what is going on !! ) connect one end to the brake caliper . undo the master cylinder cap and hold the other end " in the brake fluid ", now undo the bleed screw and watch the bubbles appear from the hose in the master cylinder , the brakes are now bleeding on there own and the is no need to pump the brakes !! just keep the fluid topped up and the hose under the fluid level , when bubbles stop the brake is bled and retighten the bleed valve. :D
 
If you know someone that works in a hospital, I.V. tubing works well too
 
Just a question. as this works, then after the bubbles stop shouldnt fluid start to fill the hose telling us that is is done and OK to close the bleeder screw???
 
yes as the air is bled the fluid will appear in the hose at the caliper being bled ,so keep the fluid topped at the master cylinder ..and then close the valve, i have used this many times and have a good brake pedal and the spongy lever has gone ..
 
so it's just a hose from the bleed screw inot the resivor cup????
 
Nope.
You have a second container.

Attach a piece of clear tubing to the end of the bleeder. Put the other end into a container (glass is good 'cause brake fluid won't hurt it) into which you pour an inch of fresh brake fluid. Make sure the end of the tube is submerged.
Now loosen the bleed screw.
You will get bubbles in the container as air is forced (by gravity) from the brake lines. When clear brake fluid (no bubbles) appears in the tubing, close the bleeder.
Make sure you keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level. Don't let it fall too low or you get nice, fresh air bubbles in the lines.
 
This works GREAT!
I have bled a bazillion old cars and bikes in my day and never heard this tip before! I always had to enlist a coupla people around to help.
Thanks!
 
I was under the impression that fluid will not go through the system unless the brake lever is pulled, I've changed my fluid a thousand times using a clear tube coming from the brake bleeder into a clear jar with about an inch or two of fluid, one hand pumping the brake lever and the other loosening and tightening the bleeder valve. There are pumps you can buy that attach to the bleeder and you have to depress the brake lever and pump all old fluid as well as any air out. I'm just having a hard time understanding how you bled the system without depressing the brake lever? If you have good seals in your resevoir it shoud'nt run out of the bleader without unless the brake lever is in. If there is something Im not understanding please enlighten :?
 
You do need to pump the brake lever (at least the way I do it), but you can do it from a comfortable position. I use a clear plastic pop bottle for this task - I'm less likely to break it. (Grin) The fluid in the bottle isn't just so you can see the bubbles, it's to prevent air from being sucked back into the hose.

Dave
 
The way i have described here the is no need to pump the brake , just put the end of your bleed hose into the fluid in the master cylinder( this replaces the bottle/container normally used ) making sure the end is under the fluid !!, open the bleed valve and the brakes will bleed on their own.
 
amazing! so the brake fluid defies the laws of physics and drains uphill (to the reservoir)?
and the bubbles dont rise to the top, but instead sink to the bottom of the system and come out the bleeder?
and the brake fluid also gets past your piston seal?
it must be a northern hemisphere thing. It wouldn't work down here in the South.
 
martin said:
amazing! so the brake fluid defies the laws of physics and drains uphill (to the reservoir)?
and the bubbles dont rise to the top, but instead sink to the bottom of the system and come out the bleeder?
and the brake fluid also gets past your piston seal?
it must be a northern hemisphere thing. It wouldn't work down here in the South.
Click to expand...

Down here you've got to have the tube coiled in the other direction. :-)
It also helps to have a left-brain personality.

Kim
 
Hi
:lol:

I have bleeded the brakes the tube metod since 1974,
has always worked great.On cars and motorsycles.
But I have always squeezed the handle or pumped the pedal.
Here in Norway you can bay small complete sets to bleed the brakes.
(container- tube and one way valve).


Gs1000GLx
 
ToddB3

The seals in the resevoir are to prevent the brake fluid from leaking out around the piston(plunger) not to stop it from entering the brake lines. When you pull in on the handle/push on the pedal you are pressurizing the lines to engage the brake pads/shoes. If you open a bleeder valve there is a open path from master cylinder/resevoir to the outside.

scotto58
 
No Pumping???

No Pumping???

Maybe it's some new fangled ABS system or something.
Brakes have been bled basically the same way since they started using them. Maybe there is a new system?

Maybe I can get that on my bike I just replaced all the calipers and the mastercylinder and I don't think I could have done it without some pressure being applied whether your pushing or pulling it out and before I broke down and bought that hand vaccuum pump it was PURE HELL Had the neighbor kids taking turns just trying to get the pressure up.

This was third time in a week I had put a different mastercylinder on it. It was just to much I broke down!!!! I spent the $50 for the hand vaccuum pump with fittiing and hoses. The hoses work better then the fittings. btw.

It was worth the money. My time is a more valuable then the time spent doing it by manually and if anyone needs to bleed thier brakes you can come by and use it or I might swing by with it.. I pity anyone who has to go through what I did! Maybe I did something wrong? I doubt it. !
I also found that it's not as bad when you have the round mastercylinders they pump a lot. The square ones it's a trickle! Fooled me..:)
 
Something I made up years ago on bleeding brakes. You take a jar ( I used a miracle whip jar ) Epoxy ( J/B Weld ) 2 copper lines at the holes you drilled into the lid. One line extends about 1 inch into the jar & the other one goes almost to the bottom. You run a clear hose from the brake nipple to the long line in the jar. The short line, use a hose to a hand pump. I didn't have a hand pump at the time & what I did have was a cleaning wand for my air compressor that had a clear line to pull the cleaning fluid up to mix with the air. When I blew air thru the wand, it created suction from the wand to the jar from the draw for the cleaning end. The wand cost me about 10-15 bucks. I know, mountain outta ant hill. But, when you are by yourself, you get inventive. The suction draws fluid from the caliper to inside the jar. You can see when you have no more bubbles comming thru. No mess. Tighten the nipple when done. Just have to keep the master filled while doing. Dave
 
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