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blown fuse

  • Thread starter Thread starter texman51
  • Start date Start date
T

texman51

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I have a 1982 gs1100 that I restored recently. I installed a new caltric r/r and soldered the three wires from the stator directly to the r/r. then I installed a blade fuse holder between the red wire from the r/r and the battery, with a 15 amp fuse.The black ground wire was ran directly to the neg on the battery and the r/r body was grounded to the frame as well. it showed a charging rate of 13.75 to 14.00 volts when I first started it up.
I rode the bike for about three months and 2000 miles with no problems, then one day, I started it up and rode to a gas station about 3 miles away and before I got to the station, it started to cut out and then died as I rolled to the pumps. I filled with gas and then tried to start, battery dead as hell. I checked the 15 amp fuse and it was melted pretty bad on the r/r side. I had another new, charged battery in my garage, so I got a ride and then installed the new battery and fired it up and rode back home. at home, I replaced the fuse with a new one and put the old battery on charge. I had to top it off with dist. water, several of the cells were pretty low.
I put my tester on the terminals of the new battery in the bike while it was running, and it showed a charge rate of 13.75 volts up to 14 if you reved up the bike, looked ok to me, so I rode it a day or two, then checked the fuse and it also was blown and melted at thr r/r side.
It seems to be ok when I first ride, but the battery being low of water and the blown fuses have me puzzled? any advice whould be appreciated! thanks!
 
The fuse needs to be slightly bigger- I'd use a 20 amp fuse with your method of direct to battery positive. This line would likely run at around 13 amps BEFORE you used brakes or blinkers - the stator and R/R could push out maybe 18 amps at maximum especially if they "felt" the battery was low.
 
Make sure the fuse holder and wire gauge supports the 20 amp fuse as well.
 
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