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bs34ss assistance

  • Thread starter Thread starter 60ratrod
  • Start date Start date
6

60ratrod

Guest
So i made a noob error and stripped the head on one of my pilot jets from the bs34ss carbs on my kz. So how can i get it out, and where can i get a new 37.5 pilot jet?
 
Drill for an easy out
Get the easy out started
Heat with a torch for a few minutes
Remove slowly and do not force.
 
I didn't have the forethought to remove it before i set my heat gun on the carb to break the red loctite bond from the last time i had to do shaft seals. I read about using a reverse drill bit vice easy out to not expand the brass. I may try the heat and beat method before resorting to the reverse drill bit/ easy out method. I did order all new 37.5 pilots since the others looked a little buggered too. At least i got those out
 
Got it! Ended up using a regular drill bit as an easy out. It actually worked pretty well all things considered
 
Glad you got it out. What are you running for mains. Curious as I run 40's and 140's with jardines and pods.
 
What ever the stock main is for a kz1000m1, i'll get back to you later when i can get back to the garage. I'm using the stock air box and stock exhaust that someone cut the baffles out of. I should probably do some rejetting, but it's been running great, plenty of power, great throttle response, no lagging/hanging/bogging/stuttering until the shaft seals went bad. I forget the rule on exhaust, was it up one on the mains or pilots? Again, i didn't touch the jetting because there was no seeable reason to since i wasn't experiencing any rideability issues
 
I believe I can locate a worksheet for jetting that bike, general rules for each mod. For exhaust it was up one for each if I remember, but let me try and find it for you.
 
With pods and headers, this is the general workup from what I found, and also what I run. "needles should be shimmed up about 1.5mm mains @ 137.5 to start and IMHO I don't see needing more than 140's . I remember Steve having #40 non bleed pilots . Idle mixture screws should see lean missfire around 1 3/4 turns and rich missfire about 3 turns out . An easy check to see if you are still running lean is to cover the filters with cotton socks . If it improves drop the needles remove the socks and try again with an increase the main jet size ."
 
The kz is running a stock box and stock exhaust from a kz1000 police that someone cut the baffles and left the caps in. It ran great before i needed to do the shaft seals with how it's set, and the plugs indicate that it's jetted just right, or was.

So i got the throttle shaft seals replaced, all new pilot jets since i screwed one all to hell and the others could have used replacing as well. Got everything back together and now i have the dreaded low speed acceleration stumble and exhaust pop. I've checked for any possible vacuum leaks and there are none. I inspected the slide diaphragms, and all are great. All the o-rings are brand new, and the head boots are brand new from last year and are in excellent shape, i believe the airbox boots are original and are also in great shape-still soft and pliable with no cracks.

For the ignition portion, it's sporting the dyna s ds1-1, dyna green dc1-1 coils, and coil relay mod. The wires are also dyna. The plugs are ngk plugs.

i looked at the ignition last night and i found good 12vdc switched at the coils, nice strong purplish-blue spark, but all the plugs themselves were loose when i went to remove them for inspection and spark checking.

When i got the kz on the road last year, it had these same issues, and that's when i took the dyna coils from the gs650, and it fixed the same issue i had last year. So i am thinking of replacing the wires to see what happens. If that doesn't do anything for it, the coils will go back on the gs to see if they went bad since the gs just needs a strip and dip on the carbs and a set of coils to be back on the road.

So what do you all see that might be my issue? Can someone list off or link me to a list of issues that will cause a low speed acceleration stumble and exhaust pop so i can slowly eliminate each as the cause? I'm running short on other potential causes
 
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With stock air box it means you have the reed valve ports and all that still tied in? You should not need to do much with jetting as that is not much of a change with a punched out exhaust. Did you spray some wd40 around all the boots and vacumn connections to see if you got and increase in idle speed, which would indicate a vacumn leak? That's what it sounds like. Have you drilled out the caps for the fuel mixture screws? You might help that stumble out a bit by opening those up a half a turn and see how it runs. That might compensate for the leak and make it less noticeable. I have had to go to 2 1/2 to 3 turns out on some tunes with pods and open headers to get past that stumble on transition to main jet circut. They have a guy that goes by wired george on the KZ sites that covers those issues in detail. Adjustment of fuel mixture screws, between cylinders and carb, is what controls the mixture at that point in the circut. I am not an expert by any stretch but I have scratched my head more than once with that same problem on that same bike.
 
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reed valves? the idle air/fuel caps have been non existant since i had the bike. one thing that i am gonna try before i yank the carbs again is changing the wires with the ones that came off the gs. it ran great when i had the tank off and test bottle on. so it might be the wires
 
My bike has reed valves on top of motor on each side that tied into a vacum aparatus and then back to stock airbox. All that is plugged off and disconnected on mine. I hate when they run great on fuel bottle and immediately suck when the tank goes back on.
 
Well i tried swapping wires, no joy. Tried draining the tank and replacing with fresher fuel with no stabil in it, no joy. On a side note, screwing the idle air screws on carbs 1-3 all the way in do nothing to the idle, but if i do it on #4 it tries to die. So i think my next logical step will be to yank the carbs back out and chase the idle air/fuel and pilot passages with a piece of wire since i didn't do that. I didn't chase them when i did the strip and dip because i thought it was just the throttle shaft seals. Maybe i found my culprit with the passages?
 
Those fuel mixture screws control the pilot circut. Order on the screw is spring first, then washer, then o-ring. Screwing them in eliminates fuel and screwing them out adds fuel. Start at 1 1/2 and don't go past four or the springs will be loose and it will fall out. Adjust to fastest idle between 1 and 3.5 and then set idle with idles adjustment screw when warm. If it doesn't affect idle speed leave at 2.5. Info from http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf
 
I'd start them a little more open then 1.5 turns. More like 2.5 as a starting baseline. Easier to do the initial start and tune in.
 
That's where they were when i put the carbs back together, 2.5 turns out, and #4 was the only carb that did something to the running
 
hopefully a good follow up to verify nothing is plugged up in any passages will have you cooking again. Keeping your stock air box they shouldn't need much jet or tuning schenanigans. Something is just not open in your pilot circuit and it didn't start till they got pulled off. Good luck
 
Well i've tried everything including the circuit passages chase and still the same, just not as bad. Since i have done everything else, including shimming the needle which made it run to 4k on no choke almost immediately, i think that since it was a fresh rebuild when i bought it and everything is broke in motor wise i need to step the pilots up one to 40 from the 37.5 since the cans have the baffles punched out. I will let you know how that goes since i leave for 12 days for the USS Stennis on Tuesday.
 
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