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Can JBweld fix my tank?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ValorSolo
  • Start date Start date
The tank that was on my bike had several JBWelds, and fiberglass from PO, worked a while then leaked again, I just replaced my tank, but kept the old one, going to chisel and grind all the old crap off, and weld/braze it up properly one day. Remember, fuel tanks expand and contract besides the fuel attacking and any additives from inside. Thats why solder/braze/weld is the best solution.
 
+1 Braze/weld with a torch... maybe JB would hold if the gas didn't touch it ?
but whatever you do, use POR-15 after.
. It will seal everything.
MAKE SURE you remove the sending unit !
Find it on ebay, it will last longer than the rest of the bike.
 
I used JB weld on my old GPz 750 tank. It held for months until I could source a decent used tank. The key, as always, is preparation. Cleanliness will ensure success, as will the proper mix ratio. I just did it 1:1, mixed thoroughly, slopped it on. Smoothed it down while still pliable, then gave it a week or so to cure. Good luck!
 
Hell I used Plumbers Putty to repair my gas tank on my old s10 it still wasn't leaking when I got rid of the truck 2 years later.
 
The tank that was on my bike had several JBWelds, and fiberglass from PO, worked a while then leaked again, I just replaced my tank, but kept the old one, going to chisel and grind all the old crap off, and weld/braze it up properly one day. Remember, fuel tanks expand and contract besides the fuel attacking and any additives from inside. Thats why solder/braze/weld is the best solution.

make sure there isnt any gas smell when you grind it..:eek: kablooweee:eek:
if ya know what i mean
 
Nope, I always clean them out with water followed by denatured alcohol first, I'll be cutting this tank clean off from the base, do the necessary repairs on the base, and then start a custom mod on the upper section to incorporate a larger fuel tank, maybe even add knee pads. Next winter project. Kinda similar to a G tank but with the original L mounting, so it will be a direct swap. I've got the sheet metal, just not a brake, may have to do a lot of heat and hammer hand forming.
 
Nope, I always clean them out with water followed by denatured alcohol first, I'll be cutting this tank clean off from the base, do the necessary repairs on the base, and then start a custom mod on the upper section to incorporate a larger fuel tank, maybe even add knee pads. Next winter project. Kinda similar to a G tank but with the original L mounting, so it will be a direct swap. I've got the sheet metal, just not a brake, may have to do a lot of heat and hammer hand forming.

Been contemplating for three days and I've convinced myself to do something similar.
I'll get a replacement tank first. Then see what kind of monster tank I can create.
Good tip on washing it out with water first.
 
Been contemplating for three days and I've convinced myself to do something similar.
I'll get a replacement tank first. Then see what kind of monster tank I can create.
Good tip on washing it out with water first.

Well the water and gas won't mix, but it will push any liquid out as it displaces it, and should eliminate any fumes, the denatured alcohol will absorb any water afterwards, to cut down on some of the rust treating, which you'll probably want to do anyway.
Just don't dump it down any drains afterwards being water, not being insulted with this comment, just trying to be informative. It doesn't take much gasoline to pollute a large water supply, like one gallon of gas will contaminate 100,000 gallons of water. I know it's not environmentally friendly, but out in the country, we burn a lot of things, and small amounts of flammable liquids, well, poof! Here comes the lynch mob...
 
Hell I used Plumbers Putty to repair my gas tank on my old s10 it still wasn't leaking when I got rid of the truck 2 years later.

+1 on plumbers putty. That stuff is a life saver. On the 750 the tank had sprung a leak and it had been repaired with brazed patches. When I got it there were some pin hole leaks which I plugged with the plumbers epoxy. I ran it that way for about a year with no issues but eventually coated the tank with Caswell epoxy.

To test the effectiveness of the plumbers epoxy, I dropped a pellet of it in gas and let it sit for over a year and there was no softening or deterioration of any kind so I'd say its fine for tank repairs.

Its good for most emergency repairs and I always carry some in the tool kit. Never know when you might need to plug something.

Cheers,
Spyug
 
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