charging problem or am I just doing something wrong.

[wyly]

I installed a new Ricks stator and R/R on my GS1150 and both test okay, battery at idle sits at about 12.75 to 12.8.
When I raise the rpm to 5000 the voltage to the battery doesn't reach the required 14-15.5volts, it struggles to get over 13v.
Is there something else I need to look for?
Am I doing something wrong with my testing.

Original problem was the battery draining as I was riding, and wouldn't restart if I made more than one stop.

 

[posplayr]

You can read the threads in my signature. Comments/Directions:

1.) Since you just replaced both stator and R/R they are probably OK for the time being but you will probably burn up your stator before too long. See GS Stator for alternatives including SH775 or teh Compufire. You will also drop operating temp when you do this.
Quick Test

2.) If you look at Quick Test diagnosis you see you probably have dirty connection. You should compare 2500 RPM to 5K RPM if it folds back it is bad conenctions
http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers3.php

3.) Clean all connections using chemical cleaners. There is another thread listing recommendations.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ing-Electrical-Connenctions&highlight=contact


4.) Pretty much ignore the manual for changing system testing See teh GS Stator pages.
http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php

You fuse box only has crimps in the external connector not internal, but these can still be dirty contacts for the spades.

Get Some DeOxit.

5.) Rewire according to this link:GS Charging Health

 

[wyly]

thanks for the quick reply

I printed out your check list.

A question about idle stator test, the check list says when doing an idle test of the stator no readings should be below .5 Ohms, mine are .1

Edit: did another test with different ohm setting, this time .8 ohms
5000 rpm voltage on stator 100volts...
Battery on idle 12.4 doesn't move regardless of RPM...I assume there is no charge reaching battery?



I called Ricks and asked them about what I found and they said as long as there is continuity and they read the same it's ok?

 

[posplayr]

thanks for the quick reply

I printed out your check list.

A question about idle stator test, the check list says when doing an idle test of the stator no readings should be below .5 Ohms, mine are .1

Edit: did another test with different ohm setting, this time .8 ohms
5000 rpm voltage on stator 100volts...
Battery on idle 12.4 doesn't move regardless of RPM...I assume there is no charge reaching battery?



I called Ricks and asked them about what I found and they said as long as there is continuity and they read the same it's ok?

1. Ohm tests on stator are nearly worthless(I ignore them because of that).
2. I have a Masters in Electrical Engineering, what does that support person from Rick's have? Ohms are meaningless especially what he told you.
3. You should do the Phase B leg to ground stator tests to complement the leg to leg you just did.
4. You either have a bad stator or a bad R/R. It is hard to test an R/R of the charging system. Your best way to isolate is to confirm the stator works. See comment 3.) above.
5. You never posted your quick test results so I'm only going based on the measurements you are reporting.

 

[wyly]

I have no idea of Ricks qualifications or those working there, the person I spoke with put me on hold while she consulted someone, until I know different I have to assume whoever I talk knows what they're talking about... regardless when I redid the test it came back with .8Ohms not .1...so I assume it was my testing error

step 2 and 3 checking between the positive and negative leads on the R/R and the battery at 5K rpm neither were over .25v

at no time would the charge to the battery exceed 12.85v even at 5k rpm

moved on to stator test Phase B
lowest multimeter ohm setting was 200
-testing between stator wires .8 ohms
-yellow wires to casing .9 .9 .4 not good? I grounded to the casing in two spots first in an open bolt hole and then to bare casing where a cooling fin had chipped off, same results both times...
-80 volts at 4K, 100 at 5k rpm
-stator wires to battery at idle 24v, 24v, and zero, was there any point in taking it to 5k rpm?

if I did the tests correctly two of the four didn't pass your check list ...

so the new stator is screwed?

 

[wyly]

I found a definite problem, before I installed the stator I thought I did a test for ground and it passed. So I after reading your check list and watching some videos I thought maybe I should remove the stator and test it again...I found a wire pinched between the casing and cover near where it exits the cover...the insulting cover had a hole and the copper wire was grounded to the casing...would this explain both failed readings I was seeing?

1st failed test-yellow wires to casing .9 .9 .4 not good? I grounded to the casing in two spots first in an open bolt hole and then to bare casing where a cooling fin had chipped off, same results both times...

2nd test--stator wires to battery at idle 24v, 24v, and zero, was there any point in taking it to 5k rpm?

I did the stator wire to ground test again on all three wires and it passed OL...

the wire isn't broken only the insulation could I re-cover it with a couple layers of shrink wrap tubing or will the heat be a problem for the shrink wrap?

I could cut the socket off at the end and slip the tubing down to the break easily enough and the break would be in the oil free side of the cover and then crimp on a new socket

 

[wyly]

YES! 100volts at 5K rpm and 14.25v at idle on the battery! the supplier of the stator and R/R claimed I would see a 20% greater out put than stock is that a problem? I haven't done a voltage test as yet at 5K rpm...

I put two layers of shrink wrap over the damaged area (the wrap is rated to 110c) then I pulled the sheath over top of that.