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Charging theory question

willie

willie

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Having read about every thread there's been regarding r/r's and stators, I have a basic question I'd like answered. The premise to this is the idea that one of the reasons that r/r's get hot and stators get cooked (with Shunt type r/r's) is that the excess generated current is being dumped to ground, which in turn, causes resistance in the wiring due to all the current flow. Here's my question: would a shunt type r/r and the stator run cooler if the generated voltage was being used by a load instead of being shunted to ground? By a 'load" I'm referring to lights, ignition and accessories.
I'll wait for the answer to be posted before moving on to the next question.
Thanks,
Willie
 
In my opinion, you are correct. The heat is caused by the switching transistors in the regulator switching state from ON to OFF. There is not much resistance while in either state, only in the transition. The newer FET regulators switch states much quicker, which is why they run cooler.

However, there are some problems trying to put that into practice. Since the output of the stator is directly proportional to engine speed, your load would also have to change with engine speed. Unless you have some sort of automatic controller, it would be very tedious and tiring to constantly adjust your electrical load.

.
 
I would say no to running the stator any cooler. A higher load would keep the system in a charging mode, it shunts to ground when no charging is necessary, still using stator output, producing heat continuously. I couldn't tell you which mode produces more heat, but together it's going to be more than a series R/R, that switches off until additional charging is required.
 
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OldVet66 said:
I couldn't tell you which mode produces more heat, but together it's going to be more than a series R/R, that switches off until additional charging is required.
Click to expand...
Good thinking Roger and FWIW, I've decided to install a series r/r. I found a nib CE601 for $125. I pulled the battery box out this morning and pulled the stator last week. I've already got a tracking number for the RM Stator I've ordered. I'm starting fresh and hope to never mess with it again.
Willie
 
After I bragged on my old blackened stator that has been doing fine since I installed the Compu-Fire close to a year ago, it died on me yesterday. I swear Murphy was sitting on my shoulder when I was posting, because it died the next day. I'm going to order a stator wound for 20% more output, so hopefully I can add a little more heated gear this winter. The old stator ran electric cloves and insoles last winter and still kept the bike charged. Once the stator turns black I guess cascading failure is eventually inevitable. I Pulled the stator from my '78 motor, and it was also a crispy critter. From what I have read, the only down side of the CE601 is size. I expect it will work as well as the Compu-Fire, just not as easy to tuck away. I can't quantify it, but everything just seemed to work better after the series R/R install on my bike. That's the same Ricks stator I was looking at. I was going to call Ricks Mon. morning to see if it was a high output stator.
 
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