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Checking valves on a 700

  • Thread starter Thread starter UncleMike
  • Start date Start date
U

UncleMike

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Was checking/adjusting the valves on Pat(Gravity Tester)'s 700ES last night, and they were WAY too tight. I had to back out the adjusters quite a bit, between 1/4 and 1/2 of an inch.

We're doing everything according to the repair manual, but I guess I'm just nervous because it's not my bike, and that it's an engine I have yet to work on substantially.

The only thing I can think of is that we were using the rear wheel spinning in 5th to get the marks in the right place rather than a 19mm wrench, because Pat didn't have one.

Should I be concerned? I'll have pictures tonight.

/Mike
 
6 one way...

6 one way...

Hi Uncle Mike,

So you used the sprocket to turn the motor instead of the crankshaft? I don't see how it would make a difference as long as you got the cams lined up properly. I'd say that was a good "workaround". Necessity is the Mother of Invention. :-D


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Hi Uncle Mike,

So you used the sprocket to turn the motor instead of the crankshaft? I don't see how it would make a difference as long as you got the cams lined up properly. I'd say that was a good "workaround". Necessity is the Mother of Invention. :-D


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

Basically. Had it up on the center-stand so just put it in 5th and turned carefully until the cams were lined up as stated in the manual.

What really worries me is how much I had to back off on the valves. Guess the springs are just worn?
 
Hi Mr. Uncle Mike,

I have no first-hand experience with the 16 valve motors. But the first time I adjusted my valves I had to swap 5 shims. Some had to go down 2 sizes. I don't think the valves had ever been adjusted on my bike. It seems some had zero clearance.

You probably don't need it now, but Mr. basic has a 16 valve adjustment guide posted on my website. He doesn't address springs though.

I'm sure you do nice work.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I have not adjusted valves on a 16-valve GS either, but the lift isn't even that much, is it? I know the lift on my 850 is only about .3"

.
 
Steve said:
I have not adjusted valves on a 16-valve GS either, but the lift isn't even that much, is it? I know the lift on my 850 is only about .3"

.
Click to expand...

Yeah, we're working with between .09 and .13mm. I'm measuring between the arm and the valve, but it just surprised me that if I had to raise them that much just to get in spec, that the bike would still run, however cold-bloodedly.
 
Just don't leave those adjusters loose. If one (or two) come free and bounce around the motor, it Ain't Good(tm). Ask me how I know...
 
Thanks Guy's and a big shout out to Uncle Mike. We rasied the adjuster about 1/8 of an inch to get the clearance to spec. Just seemed like a lot. We will see after we finish tonight.

Thanks again Mike

Pat
 
And I just realized that I put it as 700, not 750. What an a$$.

Working on my other friend's 700 today...
 
That is a lot, but it doesn't matter how you turn the engine.

I actually used the starter to do it on mine. Why? Because I'm kinda lazy at times and it works. I do the same thing on the car when I need to adjust the valves on it.
 
OK - my list of flubs for the day.

Apparently we were (I was) looking at the wrong marks yesterday, which accounts for how much we had to back out the adjusters. Fixed.

Then I did what we all dread, dropped a tool down into the engine, a rather ingenious self-made adjuster I might add - (self-made by Pat, not me.)

Went to AAP and got a four-prong snake grabber thing to get it out. Hairy as hell, but I got it after two tries, one of which dropped it deeper into the engine.

She starts right up now with no choke.

Honestly, I'm still a bit wigged out about it and ready to relax a bit...
 
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