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Clutch basket Photo - Loose Springs

  • Thread starter Thread starter evh
  • Start date Start date
E

evh

Guest
Took my clutch apart today on my 821100E to give it an inspection and install new EBC springs.. I removed the basket to inspect the cause of the rattle which is the typical loose springs or rivets.. well the rivets have already been welded by the previous owner and a couple of the springs have spacers to tighten them up. what I'm trying to decide is whether or not to grind the welds off to shims the springs at the back to get rid of the rattle or is it not a big deal? you can see a couple springs are different than the rest..
Other than having to live with the rattle noise which isn't that bad, is there any other problems by just leaving it?

Also, the basket is in great shape, there is barely any notches, you can barely feel them at all.. this engine is so spotless inside.. the previous owners must have done their maintenance..

 
as some springs are already shimmed, but not all, i would say grind off the welds and rebuild it properly.
others might (and probably will) say run with it or just add more shims.
 
Well whats the risk of running it other than the mild rattle noise i'm getting with the clutch lever pulled in? If the rivets are welded what can possibly happen?
 
as people always say, it's better to shell out a few bucks now while you got the clutch apart anyway, rather than wait for it to self destruct and have to pay out loads for a rebuild or even another motor!
 
i just checked for the backing plate rebuild kits.. $189 for a backing plate? lol
 
The performance crowd folks will tell you there is risk of blowing up the clutch on the 1100E bikes, and spending the money on a sturdy clutch hub kit is money well spent. I've done that flying banana rework trick on one bike and it worked okay, but another bike with the same engine had a rebuilt HD clutch back plate kit installed and the clutch action is much nicer than the other. The stiffer hub springs improve clutch action noticeably in my opinion and rebuilding the hub is worth the effort and cost.
 
Nessism said:
The performance crowd folks will tell you there is risk of blowing up the clutch on the 1100E bikes, and spending the money on a sturdy clutch hub kit is money well spent. I've done that flying banana rework trick on one bike and it worked okay, but another bike with the same engine had a rebuilt HD clutch back plate kit installed and the clutch action is much nicer than the other. The stiffer hub springs improve clutch action noticeably in my opinion and rebuilding the hub is worth the effort and cost.
Click to expand...

the flying banana rework trick is using the aftermarket backing plate.. isn't that what he did in his article??.. using the stock backing plate with welded rivets is what i have already.

This is something else I found, these are the spacers inside the clutch basket springs.. you can see where the springs were wearing into them from twisting I assume?
 
You need a very solid clutch, as you have all the goodies in your bike,
performance wise. I would rebuild it to the highest standards to take
the extra stress put on it.
 
You're right, even though I baby this bike, i'm going to pull it apart and fix it right, I'm not one to cut corners...I have new clutch plates, APE Nut, springs.. I'll grind the welds off and fix the rattling spring issue..

sedelen said:
You need a very solid clutch, as you have all the goodies in your bike,
performance wise. I would rebuild it to the highest standards to take
the extra stress put on it.
Click to expand...
 
evh said:
You're right, even though I baby this bike, i'm going to pull it apart and fix it right, I'm not one to cut corners...I have new clutch plates, APE Nut, springs.. I'll grind the welds off and fix the rattling spring issue..
Click to expand...

Hopefully your new clutch fiber plates are for the '82 model, the aluminum backed fiber ones instead of the thinner steel backed fiber ones used on the '83 model that eats clutch baskets. And because the '82's are thicker there's one less than the '83. But you probably already know this already.
 
sedelen said:
Hopefully your new clutch fiber plates are for the '82 model, the aluminum backed fiber ones instead of the thinner steel backed fiber ones used on the '83 model that eats clutch baskets. And because the '82's are thicker there's one less than the '83. But you probably already know this already.
Click to expand...

Yes I was already aware but thanks for making sure, some others reading might not have known this. The only thing different I'll be doing is when I weld it back together I'll be stick welding it not tig.. I don't own a TIG but stick and mig welders I do.

I'm just heading out in the shop to gring the welds off and open it up.. I'm take today off from working on customers stuff to fix some of my own LOL
 
Not trying to steal thread, but wondering if it is normal on the 821100e to have clutch rattle when idling in neutral with the clutch out? When pulled in it doesnt rattle....
 
Gregory said:
Not trying to steal thread, but wondering if it is normal on the 821100e to have clutch rattle when idling in neutral with the clutch out? When pulled in it doesnt rattle....
Click to expand...

The short answer is "No" and there could be lots of reasons as to why it does, mostly it's that nut that's backed off, or the springs in the back of the basket like in the picture on post 1 of this thread.
 
Gregory said:
Not trying to steal thread, but wondering if it is normal on the 821100e to have clutch rattle when idling in neutral with the clutch out? When pulled in it doesnt rattle....
Click to expand...

what sedelen said is right..
Usually if the springs in the back are loose it will rattle with the lever pulled in. once you let the clutch out and torque is applied to the basket, the slack is taken up and the rattle should go away mostly.. if it's still noisy with the clutch out then like Steve said check the basket nut.. when i removed mine it took very little effort to get it off. wasn't that tight, scary thought.. I grabbed an APE nut and torque it to 100 ft/lbs with an impact..
 
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