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Clutch fibers discrepancy

Tom R

Tom R

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
I took my clutch apart to replace the springs in hopes of curing my power band slippage. While I had it apart, I glass bead blasted the steel plates and measured the fibers.
Everything's in spec; but on a couple of the fibers I'm finding discrepancies up to .07mm depending on where I measure it (3.05mm on the high side to 2.98mm on the low side)? Has anyone else come across this and could this contribute to my clutch letting go at full throttle?
The new springs are about 40.5mm and the ones I'm replacing are within spec at 39.5mm. The steels were flat and didn't show any burning; but they were glazed. How are the steels supposed to look? Is shiny fairly normal? I don't see how you can keep the fibers from polishing them up a bit.
 
Tom R said:
I took my clutch apart to replace the springs in hopes of curing my power band slippage. While I had it apart, I glass bead blasted the steel plates and measured the fibers.
Everything's in spec; but on a couple of the fibers I'm finding discrepancies up to .07mm depending on where I measure it (3.05mm on the high side to 2.98mm on the low side)? Has anyone else come across this and could this contribute to my clutch letting go at full throttle?
The new springs are about 40.5mm and the ones I'm replacing are within spec at 39.5mm. The steels were flat and didn't show any burning; but they were glazed. How are the steels supposed to look? Is shiny fairly normal? I don't see how you can keep the fibers from polishing them up a bit.
Click to expand...

I'm not an expert on the subject but it seems that after 30+ years the clutch friction material doesn't bite as hard as it once did. The thickness variation you noted is not an issue. New OE springs are a cheap experiment, and if that doesn't work you might want to try mixing in a few heavy duty aftermarket springs. If that still doesn't work I'd try new clutch discs, and go back to the new stock OE springs.
 
How do the fiber plates look? Shiny?

Deglaze them with some fine sandpaper
 
Yeah, they did look shiny and felt pretty hard to my finger nail. I have a big flat piece of glass and some 600 sandpaper, I could try scuffing them a bit on that - or bead blast?

After re-reading my original post I'm not sure if it was clear. The discrepancy is on the same plate - one side measures 3.05. and the other side reads 2.98mm.
 
Tom R said:
Yeah, they did look shiny and felt pretty hard to my finger nail. I have a big flat piece of glass and some 600 sandpaper, I could try scuffing them a bit on that - or bead blast?

After re-reading my original post I'm not sure if it was clear. The discrepancy is on the same plate - one side measures 3.05. and the other side reads 2.98mm.
Click to expand...


on a piece of glass
on wet sand paper
float the fibres over the wet paper and deglaze
that will likely take out your abberation
it will make your clutch pack cinch up properly.

Springs are for folks that think springs will make snot lose sliperiness,
 
I'd recommend using a finer grit of paper. But thats just me.

I didn't see anyone mention this, so I will.

Don't use automotive engine oil. Use either motorcycle specific, or diesel engine oils. The automotive gasoline oils contain additives that are not wet clutch compatible. blah blah blah your results may vary.
 
I deglazed the fibers on 600 sandpaper before Fours reply; it didn't take the discrepancy out of the fibers - No harm though, the clutch held like a champ all the way to 9K today.
Between deglazing and new springs something worked. Victory.
I've been using Rotella in my bikes and boat for the last 4 or 5 years - works well.
 
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