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Clutch plate: good or bad?

  • Thread starter Thread starter cowb0y
  • Start date Start date
C

cowb0y

Guest
My buddies say these are bad, I think they are good and my problem is in the tranny. The bike just doesnt engage any gear, am able to shift with or without the clutch, but no forward momentum.
 
You can't judge a clutch plate by looking at it, you need to measure the thickness and flatness. That said, those clutch plates look ok to me also.:oops:

Sounds like you might have stripped out the splines in the rear wheel (assuming you have a shafty).
 
those look fine, i think you are correct about it being in the tranny, but to be really sure you can do as i used to do. put those clutch packs in and tighten the bolts down real tight so there is no clutch at all, the plates will be tight against each other forcing it to spin the basket and if you still have no movement then its deffinatly yer tranny
 
Got a chain drive and like the idea of tightening the plates together to remove to clutch (if faulty) and I bet she wont go forward. :-k
 
Take off the front sprocket cover. Put the bike in any gear. Turn the inner clutch hub and see if the front sprocket turns.
 
woah there most gs's will engage first or second gear with the engine not running if you spin the front sprocket even without using the clutch

If the gear lever is stiff & it wont drop into a gear this way have you checked that the selecter pawl is properly engaged, the spring is still attached & all the teeth are present & correct ?

clutch plates "look" fine to me but the only real way to tell is to measure them & check for warpage
 
My 82 Kat did a similar thing, and I thought it would be big time money trans problems, but just as Tone has said, it turned out to be the pawls. Seems the shift shaft was off by 1 tooth. They need to be centered.
Sooo... I'd check there while you have the clutch out.
 
NetBSD said:
put those clutch packs in and tighten the bolts down real tight so there is no clutch at all, the plates will be tight against each other forcing it to spin the basket and if you still have no movement then its deffinatly yer tranny
Click to expand...

I'm assuming you are talking about the clutch spring bolts. This WILL NOT work. the bolts are threaded into the clutch hub and no mater how much you OVER TORQUE them they will not contact the pressure plate. they only compress the springs to a defined length determined by the post length of the clutch hub.
 
cowb0y said:
what is a pawl and how do I get to it? It is not in my manual.
Click to expand...

Behind the clutch basket...

Prawlsm.jpg
 
Here's an update to what I found today: First, three of the six clutch springs are out of tolerance (36.8 mm) and the others are at the limit of 38.5 mm. So I plan to replace them. Second, I removed the engine sprocket cover and found eighteen 12 mm rubber O-rings! some are smashed and others look like they are new (except for the grease and dirt covering them). How weird!?! I dont think they are supposed to go to anything inside the engine sprocket cover, so all were removed. Also, the engine sprocket nut wasn't attached!! and the sprocket (with chain still attached) wasn't even on the drive shaft! I think I found the problem. The sprocket lock washer doesnt show any sign of being flattened to keep the sprocket nut from coming off.
:dancing:
Thanks for the insight and advice. If anyone has a comment on what I found today, I would love to hear it.
P.S. I plan to check the pawls once I have the springs.
 
Last edited:
cowb0y said:
Here's an update to what I found today: First, three of the six clutch springs are out of tolerance (36.8 mm) and the others are at the limit of 38.5 mm. So I plan to replace them. Second, I removed the engine sprocket cover and found eighteen 12 mm rubber O-rings! some are smashed and others look like they are new (except for the grease and dirt covering them). How weird!?! I dont think they are supposed to go to anything inside the engine sprocket cover, so all were removed. Also, the engine sprocket nut wasn't attached!! and the sprocket (with chain still attached) wasn't even on the drive shaft! I think I found the problem. The sprocket lock washer doesnt show any sign of being flattened to keep the sprocket nut from coming off.
:dancing:
Thanks for the insight and advice. If anyone has a comment on what I found today, I would love to hear it.
P.S. I plan to check the pawls once I have the springs.
Click to expand...

O rings can come out of an O ring chain, are they the right size to be chain o rings?

Then some bonehead replaced the sprocket and didn't bend up the washer.

Or it was like that from the factory? Assembled late on a Friday?
 
cowb0y said:
I think I found the problem.
Click to expand...

Yup...I'd say you did. Pull the sprocket off and check the splines and shaft. If they are OK, put 'em back on...correctly...LOL.

I think tkent02 is right about the o-rings coming from the chain...unless your positive they didn't come from the chain on the bike, I'd consider a new chain...
Heck...with the front sprocket already off, maybe it's time for a 530 conversion...:D

Good luck,
Bob T.
 
What is a 530 conversion and what are the benifits? Where's a good (inexpensive) place to pick up the parts for the conversion? How do the O-rings apply to the chain? My chain doesnt look like O-rings would fit on it anywhere.
You guys are a great wealth of wisdom. Thanks for all the shared knowledge.
 
76FJ55 said:
I'm assuming you are talking about the clutch spring bolts. This WILL NOT work. the bolts are threaded into the clutch hub and no mater how much you OVER TORQUE them they will not contact the pressure plate. they only compress the springs to a defined length determined by the post length of the clutch hub.
Click to expand...


well i did not know the GS was like this, i did this on an old 72 enduro 2 stroke i had when i was a kid
 
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