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clutch plate order

  • Thread starter Thread starter h1ghw4ym4n5
  • Start date Start date
H

h1ghw4ym4n5

Guest
Hello my fellow friends. Im new here and definently a noob. So forgive my noobness.
I've bought a barn kept 1980 gs 1000g for 300 bucks and it was running. Yea tell me about it. And of course it wasnt running perfect. Anyways cleaned out the carbs had to rejet one and change the fluids and it fired up running nice. (atleast sounding nice). One day i finally decided to try and take it for a ride around the block to see if it was road ready, kicked it in gear and it jump forward a bit and died or stalled. I did research and found out it could either be the clutch adjustment or the plates sticking together. I tried the cavle adjustment to no avail,and decided to take the plates out. When i finally got to the plates it was evident that this was the problem as i was able to take the plates out in bunches since they were so stuck together. What i forgot to do was keep them in ordee but after realizing i didnt think it would matter much because i ordered new stock clutch plates and had to discard them anyway.(except for one since only 8 plates came in the order). Im going to reuse the steel plates too. But before i do can anybody tell me what goes in first and what should be showing last? And also there looks to be one steel plate left inside or im thinking it could just be the end of the clutch thingamajig(told ya im a noob. Help me out please.9 friction plates and 8 steel ones(maybe the last one is 9
 
Doesn't matter
Look in the basket and the first one is a steel. Add a fiber then steel ......
 
Just wondering what the cause or reason for rejetting one carb was.
 
I had to rejet one because the tip broke when i took it out. But thanks alot guys i appreciate that much and to the guy that said it doesnt matter which way. Are you frickin serious?:eek:
 
When you put the steels back in they need to go in one way. Take a close look at both sides and you will see the edge of one side is sharper than the other, that's from how they are made. You want to put them in with the sharper side pointing out, the slightly rolled edge should be on the motor side. Putting them in sharp edge first can cause them to grab the inner basket during engagement. If you already put them in don't sweat too much unless it is grabby. I learned this trick for drag racing and figured it cant hurt in a street bike .
Mark
 
start with a fiber.
end with a fiber.
9 fibers.
8 steels.
the steel held in with piano wire doesn't count :)
am i close?

oh,
the steels are stamped and has rolled edges.
it's good practice to install all the same way..flat side out is what i like but it doesn't really matter as i have not seen any difference.
street or strip.
fast or slow.
stock or 300+hp.
 
Last edited:
So by your statement that they ( the steels ) can grab during engagement..wouldnt it also stand to reason they can grab during disengagement?? Hog Wash..as long as they all go in the same way it doesnt matter.
 
chuck hahn said:
So by your statement that they ( the steels ) can grab during engagement..wouldnt it also stand to reason they can grab during disengagement?? Hog Wash..as long as they all go in the same way it doesnt matter.
Click to expand...

chuck,
read post #9
i'm with ya!
 
I install mine all flat side out just like the inner one with the piano wire.
Call me crazy.
No reason in particular but I may be OCD.
 
Thats what i.figured cause the last steel plate being held by the piano.clip has the round side towards the inside and the straight side towards the pressure plate
 
Bill..thats not OCD. Thats just common sense..which many dont pay close enough attention to aquire which way the first one starts out.
 
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