O
OklahomaPomade
Guest
I tested the wires to my clutch safety swith today to see why the starter button wasn't working. I found that it only had .5 volts. I'm guessing this should be 12?
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I think it's safe to say that most of us guys have bypassed that irritating switch and put it out of our minds....as for myself, I haven't thought about it in years. If you have an electrical issue, you'll get great help here...let us know what's going on and you'll be riding in fine shape soon!!:-D
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I think it's safe to say that most of us guys have bypassed that irritating switch and put it out of our minds....as for myself, I haven't thought about it in years. If you have an electrical issue, you'll get great help here...let us know what's going on and you'll be riding in fine shape soon!!:-D
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OklahomaPomade
Guest
I plan to bypass it as well, problem is that yellow/green wire has only .5 volts going to the starter button on the right grip. Since it wont start (even after cleaning the contacts) I made the leap to believing I was not getting enough voltage to the button...am I right?
B
BRycraft
Guest
Solenoid Voltage
Solenoid Voltage
When the switch is made you should be getting about 12 volts on the yellow wire that feeds the solenoid, check that soldered terminal on top of the solenoid and a known good ground, if that case isn't grounded you wont see 12 volts at that switch because the circuit is not complete at the solenoid. I had a problem with mine that the solenoid case itself was not properly grounded so I ran a ground wire from the mounting screw to the negative terminal on the battery. See the metal case on the solenoid is what serves the ground in that circuit, if you dont have a good ground you could see voltage changes throughout the circuit. See I painted my battery box and electrical plate and this is what insulated the ground. Ck your print you will see the ground is the case of the solenoid and once the case was grounded properly that solenoid valve worked perfectly. Thats why it could be intermittant, work one time and not the next. Start there at the point of service. You could have 12 volts at that terminal wire which is yellow/green I think and chase problems all over the place and still have a poor ground since you would be measuring to a known good ground. Try measuring the voltage at the terminal to the solenoid case when the switch is made then if there is a difference from say when you check at the battery terminal, that will tell you the solenoid is not grounded properly...
Good Luck Bill
Solenoid Voltage
When the switch is made you should be getting about 12 volts on the yellow wire that feeds the solenoid, check that soldered terminal on top of the solenoid and a known good ground, if that case isn't grounded you wont see 12 volts at that switch because the circuit is not complete at the solenoid. I had a problem with mine that the solenoid case itself was not properly grounded so I ran a ground wire from the mounting screw to the negative terminal on the battery. See the metal case on the solenoid is what serves the ground in that circuit, if you dont have a good ground you could see voltage changes throughout the circuit. See I painted my battery box and electrical plate and this is what insulated the ground. Ck your print you will see the ground is the case of the solenoid and once the case was grounded properly that solenoid valve worked perfectly. Thats why it could be intermittant, work one time and not the next. Start there at the point of service. You could have 12 volts at that terminal wire which is yellow/green I think and chase problems all over the place and still have a poor ground since you would be measuring to a known good ground. Try measuring the voltage at the terminal to the solenoid case when the switch is made then if there is a difference from say when you check at the battery terminal, that will tell you the solenoid is not grounded properly...
Good Luck Bill
O
OklahomaPomade
Guest
Hey alright!!! Grounding the solenoid case worked. Thanks!