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Compression and throttle question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ian Donahue
  • Start date Start date
You have aftermarket float needles and seats.
 
Carter Turk said:
That o-ring doesn't look like the o-rings were replaced recently as stated in 1st post?
Click to expand...

That is the next step. I have the kit from Cycleorings.com, and I will be replacing all these. Any opinions about the screen you see on the bottom of the seat in the PDF? I don't have those, are they necessary?
 
Carter Turk said:
That o-ring doesn't look like the o-rings were replaced recently as stated in 1st post?
Click to expand...

Ah, now I see what you mean about my first post. In the throes of my newbie-ness, I did a light carb cleaning and replaced *some* of the o-rings with the rings that came in a 3rd party carb rebuild kit. Now that I am older and wiser, I purchased the recommended cycleorings kit and I am working through the tutorial. The lacquered gasoline on the bottom of the seat is yet another argument for taking ALL OF IT APART! I'm doing it right this time, and I have high hopes for a smooth running bike by the end of the weekend.
 
There is a good chance you can get them from a member here. Chef often has things like that. You could post in the parts wanted section. I have run carbs without the little screen filter but they are cheap at PartsOutlaw.
 
Update #4: things are going well. I have the carbs mostly back together, I discovered (due to the excellent tutorial) that the vent passages in 2 of my bowls are clogged, so back into the dip for the night. A new question: I am adjusting the valves, so I have the valve cover off. ONE of the 19 bolts is longer than the others. Does anyone know where this bolt goes?
 
On my '83 1100g, the one longest bolt is on the front row, 3rd from the left. Not sure yours will be the same. My bolts are of several lengths and it is important to get them back in the right places.
 
Update #5: OK, I adjusted my valves (thanks Ray!) and finished the proper bikecliff carb rebuild tutorial. Well, it seems a little better, but the idle still climbs up into the 4000s after about 7 minutes of idling quite nicely. I decided to go ahead with the carb syncing, so I hooked up my brand new Morgan Carbtune and... nothing. The engine does not seem to be lifting the bars. If I blip the throttle, it will jump up for a second and then go back down again. #1 is jumping a little, but the other 3 are sitting on the floor. Is this related to my low compression issue? I have about 60 pounds in each cylinder. Do I have a bad head gasket?
 
Update #6. So the bike is still acting up with the rising idle and a lot of popping. So I tried the starter fluid trick to find the leak (I have replaced the o-rings and intake boots). I couldn't find it, but as I worked my way lower I found a definite response to the starter fluid where the head meets the crankcase, almost all the way around, some places more than others. This means the head gasket is blown, correct? That's replaceable, right? I just have to take the whole thing apart right?
 
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