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Cylinder Head misaligned with engine block

  • Thread starter Thread starter Montana
  • Start date Start date
M

Montana

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IMG_0902.jpgEarlier this summer I bought a used Suzuki GS 650 and it's been leaking oil ever since. I replaced the head gasket but oil still leaked out so I decided to take it apart, look it over, and replace it again. While reassembling I noticed the cylinder head is shifted just a smidgen towards the brake side.

Has this happened to any of you? Any ideas how I can fix it?

Thank you. I appreciate all replies

***This photo shows how part of the engine block is to the left of the cylinder head. The block can be seen in between the cam chain and the cam chain tunnel part of the cylinder head.
 
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Some photos showing the issue would be helpful. If you put the photos on photobucket or similar and post the IMG code the photos show up in high resolution.
 
I am not at all familiar with a GS650 cylinder head but should there not be a couple of locating bushings (bolts would go through them), perhaps located under two outside M6 bolts at the outside ends of the head? The locating bushings would go into the block to keep the cylinder head located as the holes in the head for the studs, by themselves would not keep the head positioned exactly. Are there any round openings under the M6 bolts at the sides that could accept this type bushing? The block itself will have similar locating system but use hardened pins most of the time. Wish I were more familiar but that is the only thing I can think of.
 
if the block had shifted this much out of alignment I would suspect you would have far more serious problems than a leak.
 
The rubber pads? How in the heck could the head shift? The block has pins but I think the head must have locating bushings as well; most 4 cyl bikes have them and they are generally under the two M6 bolts on the sides of the head at the end. The block might move and take the head with it but from the description, sounds like the block is where it should be and the head has shifted which means the bushings I have already described. If they are in place, it is IMPOSSIBLE for the head to have moved out of position. If the pins on the block are not in place, and the block is out of position, I doubt you could turn the engine over by hand.
 
geol said:
The rubber pads?...
Click to expand...
Look again, geol. He referrenced #7 on one fiche and #9 on another. For both items, it is the locating pin you are talking about.

The difference in the two fiche is that one is for the 650G shafty, the other is for the chain-driven 650E.

.
 
Ahhhhh... got it. The point of all this is either the block pins or the head bushings or whatever they are called. Hope the OP puts his bike year/model in a sig as some of use don't know the fine differences between the various years/models. I still find it hard to believe the engine would turn over if the block were out of whack... never have done that one that I can recall...
 
I just put my 650 top end back together and the only thing that I can think of to cause this is if the guide pins everyone keeps mentioning are missing. That or extreme heat stress that warped the block. Also you said that you replaced the cylinder head gasket but didn't mention anything about the base gasket. If you pull the head then you pretty much have to pull the cylinders as well and replace the base gasket or else the base gasket will likely leak when everything goes back together.
 
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Why would the base gasket leak if you didn't pull the block and replace it? Does torquing for a second time cause the gasket to not work anymore? I am curious as I have changed head gaskets on Kawasakis many times without messing with the base gasket. They are pretty stout on a 900/1000 Kaw. BTW: Not trying to be a smart-a... just curious.
 
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